Radio Wiring: Difference between revisions
From The E28 Wiki
Add radio wiring Tech FAQ from forum t=91386 |
Add Radio wiring FAQ discussion tips (fader shortcut, fuse panel, swapped power) |
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An '88 ran this layout for two years with no failures. | An '88 ran this layout for two years with no failures. | ||
== From the discussion == | |||
Discussion thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=105944 Radio wiring FAQ discussion]. Shagrath later confirmed the write-up above is correct as posted. A promised photo set and a non-premium-sound follow-up were never added. | |||
Useful additions from that thread: | |||
* The factory radio power harness is already fused. You do not have to move the head unit onto the auxiliary fuse panel. If you want to anyway, see [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=53571 t=53571]. | |||
* Swapping memory (constant) and switched power is the most common install mistake — the radio turns on but loses presets, or will not turn on at all. | |||
* Factory wire colors in the car can disagree with the ETM if a previous owner has been in there. Confirm with a meter, not just the color. | |||
* Cars without premium sound are a simpler rewire; this page is the premium-sound / factory-amp case. | |||
'''Keep-the-amp shortcut''' ([[lmc337]]): unplug the fader wheel, connect the aftermarket head-unit speaker '''positives''' to the matching fader-output pins (Chip Baines's old stereo-upgrade page had the colors; the site is gone), and leave the head-unit negatives disconnected / tied off. The factory amp stays in the circuit, no speaker wires are cut, and a stock head unit can go back in in minutes. Two-plus years with no speaker issues. Caveats: the radio can cut out on the brakes, especially with an extra brake light and on wet days, and an old fuse has been known to pop. | |||
Chip Baines's stereo-upgrade notes used to live at eabjr.com (dead, same as the OBC page). | |||
[[Category:Tech FAQ]] | [[Category:Tech FAQ]] | ||
