View source for Clutch Hard to Depress

By [[JBort]], Tue Jan 31, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17653 Clutch always failing, difficult to depress]

'''Problem:''' Clutch pedal gets progressively harder, may get to the point of not returning, may be leaking hydraulic fluid, may fail completely.

'''Probable cause:''' Cracked pedal cluster bracket.

'''Solution:''' Replace bracket

'''How Do I Know?:''' I've replaced five of them!! It happens!  

'''Replacement:''' New brackets are less than $45. Old ones can be welded and reinforced (I keep a "repaired core".

'''Note:'''There is an early and a late bracket, the difference being the hole for the brake light switch, however you can use them interchangeably with the corresponding switch. You should replace the clutch master cylinder, since you will have the best/easiest opportunity when the pedal cluster is removed.

Begin by removing the covers under the dash and under the steering wheel.

I would, at this time, verify that the bracket is cracked. Looking up from under the clutch pedal, sight the clutch master cylinder and the surface (of the bracket) it's bolted to. Look at the metal towards the front (pedal side) of this part of the bracket. When cracked (broken), the mounting surface of the clutch master cylinder will cause the cylinder to shift sideways, causing a misalignment of the plunger to the cylinder. The wear is rapid and not repairable, the clutch master cylinder must be replaced.

Remove the steering column by unplugging the electrical harnesses from the column, unbolting the two "swing arms" from the telescoping mechanism, removing the three upward facing bolts holding the column to the pedal bracket (one in the center and one on either side), and loosening the big 36 mm nut where the steering column "splines" to the steering shaft. Pull the entire column out and out of the way, and you have lots of room to work. (I can get to this point in about 10-15 minutes).

Disconnect the throttle and brake return springs, disconnect the brake and clutch master cylinder plungers, and unbolt the clutch master cylinder (two 10 mm bolts) and set to the side. Using a long "wobbly" extension, remove the 4 horizontal nuts and two vertical bolts (all 13 mm). The pedal cluster should be free. Remove as a unit with the pedals. On the bench, transfer the brackets and switches (as applicable) to the new/repaired pedal cluster bracket.

This is the best time to replace the clutch master cylinder. To reduce the mess, siphon some brake fluid from the reservoir. (Note, RHD models will have a separate reservoir for the clutch hydraulics, which should be completely drained). The upper hydraulic fitting presses in place; the rear bolted flange fitting can be reached from inside the engine compartment. A helper is convenient at this point. Switch the hydraulic fittings over the new clutch master and set to the side.

Installation is the reverse of removal. First replace the bracket (6 nuts/bolts). Pay attention to the "over-center" spring (large coil spring attached to the clutch pedal. It has a groove to set in. Next is the clutch master cylinder. It helps to depress the throttle for access to the 10 mm forward bolt holding the clutch master to the new/repaired pedal bracket. Reconnect the brake plunger and the clutch plunger. This connection is an eccentric and you can slightly adjust the clutch pedal height. Reconnect the throttle and brake return springs, then slide the steering column into place and reinstall the bolts and levers. Tighten the spline-shaft nut and reconnect the wiring harness plugs. Bleed the clutch hydraulics (I use a big medical syringe pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder bleed screw through the clutch master and into the reservoir. Make sure the clutch pedal is working, then "button up" the under dash and column trim pieces.

:D
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