The E28 Wiki - User contributions [en]

Body

2026-08-13T22:53:46Z

Tig: Restore page banner image

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Body FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Euro Bumper Install]]
| Fit euro bumpers to a US E28
|-
| [[Painting Moldings]]
| Black or clear coat on body moldings
|-
| [[535is Front Airdam Mounting]]
| Factory 535is airdam install sheet
|-
| [[How to Open the Hood From Outside]]
| Release the latches when the cable breaks
|-
| [[Wetness in the Trunk]]
| Tail-light seals and sunroof drains
|-
| [[Car Squeaks and Rattles]]
| Common squeak and rattle sources
|-
| [[Dashboard Cracks]]
| Dash pad cracks
|}

The E28 has a self-supporting body that is welded to the body platform. The passenger cell is a safety passenger cell with deformation elements both in the front and rear of the vehicle. Unlike its E12 predecessor and E34 successor, the E28 has a rear-hinged bonnet. The boot has a volume of 460 L (122 US gal). Most models have a fuel tank capacity of 70 L (18 US gal), with some models having a smaller tank of 63 litres (17 US gal). The kerb weight is 1,140–1,410 kg (2,513–3,109 lb).

== Paint ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+European Market Availabilty
!Color
!1982
!1983
!1984
!1985
!1986
!1987
!1988
|-
|045 Arktisblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
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|052 Hennarot
|X
|X
|X
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|060 Polaris-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
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|086 Schwarz
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|087 Graphit-metallic
|X
|X
|X
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|128 Gazellenbeige
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|X
|X
|X
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|138 Zinnoberrot
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|X
|X
|X
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|-
|139 Bronzitbeige-metallic
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|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|143 Kaschmir-metallic
|X
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|146 Alpinweiß
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|147 Safaribeige
|X
|X
|X
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|149 Saphirblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
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|151 Ascotgrau-metallic
|X
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|152 Zypressengrün-metallic
|X
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|154 Brasilbraun-metallic
|X
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|157 Kastanienrot-metallic
|X
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|170 Bahamabeige-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
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|171 Opalgrün-metallic
|X
|X
|X
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|172 Karminrot
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|X
|X
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|173 Lapisblau
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
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|176 Saturnblau
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|X
|X
|X
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|-
|177 Achatgrün-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|178 Balticblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
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|179 Akaziengrün
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|X
|X
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|180 Basaltblau
|X
|X
|X
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|181 Diamantschwarz-metallic
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|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|182 Smaragdgrün-metallic
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|X
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|184 Delphin-metallic
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|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
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|185 Cosmosblau-metallic
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|X
|X
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|187 Savannabeige
|X
|X
|X
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|188 Platanengrün-metallic
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|X
|X
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|189 Cirrusblau-metallic
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|X
|X
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|194 Pußtagrün
|X
|X
|X
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|196 Zobelbraun-metallic
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|X
|X
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|199 Burgundrot-metallic
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|X
|X
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|203 Lachssilber-metallic
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|X
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|205 Malchitgrün-metallic
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|X
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|207 Atlantisblau
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|X
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|212 Nerzbraun-metallic
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|X
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|214 Akaziengrün
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|X
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|214 Burgundrot II-metallic
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|219 Luxorbeige-metallic
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|224 Weinrot
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|X
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|231 Mineralblau
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|X
|}

== Bumpers ==
US v Euro

Euro bumper conversions

== Rear Spoiler ==
variants

== Touring ==
Shultz etc…

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Steering

2026-08-13T22:53:46Z

Tig: Add Steering FAQs table at top

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=no}}
== Steering FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
| Steering-box bracket / subframe reinforcement
|-
| [[Steering Knock When Turning]]
| Knock or clunk in the steering when turning
|}

=== Steering Boxes ===

Most E28s came with a 3.5 turn-to-turn ratio steering box. These can be identified with a silver tag. The tag on thbox will have '''1 124 700.0''' on it like these

<gallery>
Standard E28 Steering Box.jpeg|Standard E28 Steering Box
Standard E28 Steering Box Tag.jpeg|Standard E28 Steering Box Tag
</gallery>

Part '''32131126621''' (RMFD HYDRO STEERING GEAR) was found on the following vehicles:

* E24 633CSi COUPE, U.S.
* E24 635CSi COUPE, U.S.
* E24 628CSi COUPE, Euro
* E24 635CSi COUPE, Euro
* E28: Details on E28
* E28 528i SEDAN, Euro
* E28 535i SEDAN, Euro
* E28 M535i SEDAN, Euro

Other part numbers for this same 3.5 turn box:

* 32131125855 - standard E28 - NLA
* 32131126318 - handicapped version - NLA
* 32131466155 - reman - NLA

The E28 M5, and E24 M635csi came with 3.0 turn-to-turn ("close ratio") steering boxes. These will have a red (M5) or blue (635csi) tag like these ('''2225 120.0''' for the M5 and '''1126 546.0''' for the M635CSi:

<gallery>
File:M5 Steering Box.jpeg|M5 Steering Box Tag
File:635csi Steering Box.jpeg|M635CSi Steering Box Tag
</gallery>

Part 32132225121 (RMFD HYDRO STEERING GEAR) was found on the following vehicles:

* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, MANUAL (5511) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, MANUAL (5531) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, MANUAL (5531) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, MANUAL (5511) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, RHD , MANUAL (5532) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M635CSi COUPE, S38, Euro, RHD , MANUAL (5532) : POWER STEERING
* E24 635CSi COUPE, M30, U.S., AUTO (5384) : POWER STEERING
* E24 635CSi COUPE, M30, U.S., MANUAL (5374) : POWER STEERING
* E24 M6 COUPE, S38, U.S., MANUAL (5514) : POWER STEERING
* E28 M5 SEDAN, S38, Euro, MANUAL (DC91) : POWER STEERING
* E28 M5 SEDAN, S38, Euro, RHD , MANUAL (DC92) : POWER STEERING
* E28 M5 SEDAN, S38, U.S., MANUAL (DC93) : POWER STEERING

Other matching part numbers:

* 32132225120

=== Subframe Reenforcement ===

* [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
[[Category:E28 Information]]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Medium Case Differential Rebuild

2026-08-13T22:53:45Z

Tig: Fold medium-case diff rebuild discussion tips

By [[q20v]], Wed Feb 01, 2017

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=142750 Differentials: Medium Case Diff Rebuild FAQ]

*** FAQ FOR REVIEW / COMMENT ***

Problem: Cabin noise and/or vibration that is not affected by engine RPM or cornering, but is affected by vehicle speed.

Cause: Differential Pinion and/or Carrier Bearing failure

How to fix: Change the Diff Pinion and Carrier Bearings, see below.

Applicability: Generally this procedure can likely be applied to any rear differential, although the Pinion Bearing preload setting and fastener toque values may vary.

Tools required:

- Shop press

- Various sized mandrels. I used a variety of 'round' things from around the shop. This kit (or similar) came in handy:

OTC 4507 Bearing Race and Seal Driver (I bought my generic kit at Princess Auto (CDN) - try Harbour Freight in US)

[https://www.amazon.ca/OTC-4507-Bearing-Race-Driver/dp/B000O824Y8]

I have not included specific sizes in the procedure below since I simply don't know if all variants of BMW diffs use the exact same size bearings. Use good judgment here.

- Bearing splitter (1/2" - 3" size), example:

[http://www.princessauto.com/en/detail/1-2-to-3-in-bearing-splitter/A-p2990103e]

- Impact gun

- 1/4" drive Beam Torque Wrench

- 3/8" drive Click-type torque wrench

- Large breaker bar

- Pinion Yoke Holding Tool

- Various typical shop supplies

Parts List:

Pelican Parts (USD):

33131213893 $20 Tapered Roller Bearing (carrier) (2 required)

23211490120 $3.25 Securing Plate (1 required, good to order a spare)

33107505602 $7.25 Shaft Seal (output) (2 required)

33111214144 $4.25 O-Ring (2 required)

33131207280 $0.50 Lock Ring (2 required)

33111211708 $5.50 Diff Cover Gasket

33121744368 $7.25 Crush Sleeve (1 required, good to order a spare. One came with the Pinion bearings from Thayer below)

Thayer Motorsports:

Pinion Brgs w/seal/crush collar $65.00

Pinion Nut (about $5.00)

Other Suppliers:

- Fasteners, see below.

- O-ring for the Speed Sensor, available from a hardware store. Here is the size:

w. 3/32"

ID. 1 5/16"

OD. 1 1/8"

Torque Values*: (unlubricated, no thread lock)

Bearing Cap Bolts:

12-off M8x25 - Gr 8.8 - 15 lb-ft*

Diff Cover Bolts:

8-off M10x25 - Gr 8.8 - 30 lb-ft*

Rear Horizontal Support Bracket

2-off M12 x 1.5 x 50 - Gr 10.9 - 100 lb-ft*

Front Support Bracket

3-off M14 x 1.5 x 25 - Gr 10.9 - 150 lb-ft*

* Not from BMW or Bentley, derived using best practice. Use at your own discretion.

Diagnosis:

For the past few years I've been noticing a cabin noise that sounded very similar to a wheel bearing on its way out, increasing slowly over time. A couple years ago I changed the front wheel bearings and while it got a bit better the noise was still there. At this point it's enough to vibrate the dash while driving a certain speeds and while it's still not 'loud', when the car stops rolling and things are quite you kind of feel like you just woke up from a Metallica concert the night before. Anyway, on a few occasion I've had the chance to isolate the noise to the diff. This past summer I had the axles out for a rebuild and was able to spin the diff alone and it was obvious this is where the sound was coming from.

Other details:

The diff is a BMW Medium188mm open type with a ratio of 3.64:1. It has roughly 190,000 KM on it and I would imagine it had its first oil change when I bought the car ~6 years ago (168,000 km). I just drained this 6 yr old fluid for the rebuild and even it came out black, obviously I should have done a better job flushing it 6 yrs ago. The outside of the diff was dirty but not really rusty.

For the most part the pictures do the talking. I assume anyone tackling this has enough experience to know the basics, i.e. pressing things in/out straight, how much force to use, what surfaces to apply pressure on and how to support properly. I have a bunch of random round parts, like old wheel bearing races and seal drivers, which made the job go smoothly. I've seen people use a slide hammer on some of the races, but with the right sized mandrels for the press the slide hammer isn't required.

References:

- While I found bits and pieces all over the net, I generally just dove in.

- This link has good tear down / rebuild documentation that I found:

[https://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/showthread.php?1592551-320is-Diff-Rebuild-%28Pic-heavy%29]

- Forum member cek has successfully rebuilt / documented his diff rebuild here (wish I had seen this before starting mine!):

[http://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=127886]

- If you want to check / set gear backlash, there is a section in this link that covers it (courtesy of cek):

[https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/strongest-2002-limited-slip-differential-build-r74]

Procedure:

I have not covered the diff removal from the car, I assume anyone tackling this project knows how to do this.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7167.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7170.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7169.jpg]

Disassembly:

The Output Drive Flanges simply pop out. Use a screw driver for leverage if they are a bit stubborn but they shouldn't be.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7366.jpg]

Tag one side with a zip tie or similar. This particular part could be installed on either side I believe, but it's better to be safe than sorry.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7365.jpg]

The Speed Sensor is easily removed by first removing the 2-off M6x10 screws. The sensor just pulls out, there is an o-ring that seals it to the diff cover. Notice the metal shaving that were attracted to the sensor.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7367.jpg]

The Bearing Caps are next, and using a flat blade screw driver for leverage helps here. Again, doesn't take much to pop these out. There is a specifically sized (thickness) shim under each bearing cap. Tag these so they go back on the same side. This is extremely important.

Also notice the witness patch from the OE assembly, where they used sealant on that (and another) particular threaded hole. These 4 holes (2 for each Bearing Cap) are through holes into the Diff Case.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7364.jpg]

Remove the 8-off M10x25 bolts holding the Diff Cover on and remove the Diff Cover. Notice the fluid level witness line left behind by the contaminated oil.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7363.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7361.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7360.jpg]

The Diff itself just drops out the back. Keep things organized and in tagged so that all pieces go back on the same side / where they belong. Nothing worse than getting it all back together and it's too tight or loose.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7362.jpg]

Pinion Removal:

The Pinion Nut is prevented from loosening by a Securing Plate. Drill a small hole in this, partially drive a sheet metal screw into it, and pry it out.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7359.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7358.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7357.jpg]

Then using an impact gun, zip the nut off. It helps to hold the Pinion gear on the inside of the Diff Case to prevent it from spinning. Because we're using an impact the Pinion gear does not need to be held very tight.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7356.jpg]

Jump on the press and drive out the Pinion. Now you can pry the Pinion Seal out with a seal pry bar or anything else. The Small (outside) Pinion Bearing will now be free and can be removed / discarded.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7355.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7509.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7369.jpg]

Pinion Bearing Race Removal:

The outside Pinion Bearing is slightly small than the inside Pinion Bearing. I used an old Audi wheel bearing race that just fit through the inside bearing race to remove the outer (smaller) race from the inside - out. I hope that wasn’t too confusing.

This picture shows the small pinion bearing race removed and the 2 pieces I used to get it out - an old Audi wheel bearing inner race and a piece of hardware. These 2 pieces are placed against the Pinion bearing race from within the Diff.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7378.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7377.jpg]

This picture shows the extension bar required to reach inside the diff case with the press.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7373.jpg]

This picture shows the 2 pieces dropped in from inside the diff case, on top of the small pinion bearing race ready to press out.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7375.jpg]

This picture shows the diff case supported in the press; the small pinion bearing race drops out the bottom.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7376.jpg]

Next is the large (inside) pinion bearing race.

Drive it out with the press in the configuration shown. Fairly straight forward if you’ve made it this far.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7380.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7381.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7382.jpg]

Worn Parts:

Take a look at your Pinion Bearing rollers and the outer races. Mine were very badly pitted and very noisy when spun in my hand. Definitely the smoking gun in my driveline noise issue.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7370.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7371.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7372.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7384.jpg]

At this point we are almost completely disassembled... keep reading.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7388.jpg]

Large (inner) Pinion Bearing Removal:

Setup the Bearing Splitter as shown by Sarah.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7389.jpg]

Drive the Large (inner) Pinion Bearing off the shaft with the press.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7390.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7393.jpg]

Carrier Bearing Removal:

The Carrier bearings require the use of a bearing splitter for removal. I also used a large bolt to fill the space in the center, to serve as a platform for the puller.

Start with the Bearing on the Ring Gear side. Cut through the roller cage and pry it off. This leaves the inner race on the Diff.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7394.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7396.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7395.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7397.jpg]

The press cannot be used for this operation because it is impossible to support the bearing splitter on the press plates. I converted a 2-jaw puller to interface with the bearing splitter, using some 3/8" studs and nuts. Start cranking and the bearing race will slip off.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7398.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7399.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7400.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7401.jpg]

For the other side of the Diff with the speed sensor toothed ring, perform the same operation as the previous Carrier Bearing except the Bearing Splitter will engage with the top lip of the bearing race. There isn't much for the splitter to catch on so make sure the splitter is tightened up enough.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7402.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7403.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7404.jpg]

Bearing Cap Seals and Carrier Races:

Last but not least, the Bearing Cap Seals and bearing races.

Simply drive the Seals out using the appropriate driver, and same for the bearing race.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7405.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7406.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7407.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7408.jpg]

Half way point:

At this stage the diff is 100% disassembled. Consider how much time you've spent up until now and the pile of scrap parts can almost fit in one hand.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7409.jpg]

Clean clean clean and paint:

Now is the time to clean and paint everything. The amount of effort you exert here is up to you. I don't have an operational sand blaster so I stripped everything by hand. Took a bit of time but was worth it. I even turned the drain / fill plugs on the lathe to remove the surface rust. In the end I painted them silver to somewhat prevent them from rusting. Because I used a hacksaw to cut the Carrier Bearing cage, make sure to really flush out the diff of any metal particles. Same goes for the diff case. Flush everything thoroughly.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7410.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7411.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7412.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7413.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7414.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7415.jpg]

I chased all the treads to clean them up. This may be overkill to some but the devil is in the detail.

I had made an M14 thread chaser a while ago using an old axle bolt. Just cut some grooves in the thread with an angle grinder or Dremel. I have a few of these of different sizes.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7444.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7443.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7441.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7442.jpg]

Re-assembly:

Great service from Thayer Motorsport for some of the parts. I had overlooked the Pinion Nut and Securing Plate and Clay double checked to make sure I had these. I already ordered the Securing Plate from Pelican but figured a spare wouldn't hurt.. ended up needing it.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7416.jpg]

The final chapters below follow the "installation is the reverse of disassembly" mentality.

Bearing Caps:

Starting with the Bearing Caps, press the new seals in to the same depth as the old ones. Use a light smear of oil on the outside of the seal.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7418.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7417.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7419.jpg]

Flip the Caps over and drive in the Bearing races using one of the old races, as shown.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7420.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7421.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7423.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7422.jpg]

Pinion Bearing Races:

Old (left) vs new (right)

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7425.jpg]

The Pinion Bearing Races are pressed into the Diff Case using the old races.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7424.jpg]

Special note for the Large Pinion race, there is a spacer that goes in first. Don't forget to drop this in. Also, I made the mistake of using the old bearing race for the Large Bearing, and it got stuck in the case! See picture. I had take a couple steps back to get it out. I ended up using one of the old Carrier Races to drive it in, which was a bit smaller.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7426.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7427.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7428.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7429.jpg]

Large Pinion Bearing:

Press the Large Pinion Bearing on the Pinion shaft, using the old bearing or in my case, an Audi wheel bearing inner race, and the Bearing Splitter for support.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7431.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7430.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7432.jpg]

Carrier Bearings:

Press the Carrier Bearings on the Diff. Again, only apply force to the inside race, being careful not to touch the rollers or cage, which would damage the bearing.

I did these bearings in 2 steps, first with a seal driver to get it going on the press, then added the old bearing race for inside clearance. Doesn't matter which side you start with.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7434.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7433.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7435.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7436.jpg]

When you flip the Diff over for the other side, ensure it is supported properly underneath so that you don't damage the bearing you just installed.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7437.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7438.jpg]

Same 2-step process as before. Not required but this is how I did it.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7439.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7440.jpg]

Small Pinion Bearing:

Now we're getting into the meat and potatoes.

This step involves pressing the Small (outside) Pinion Bearing onto the Pinion Shaft inside the Diff Case.

In this picture, ignore the 2 parts on the right. But don't forget the Crush Sleeve!!

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7445.jpg]

I pressed the Bearing on the Shaft in 2 steps, first with the bearing simply supported on the press plates to get it started.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7448.jpg]

In hindsight I should have used an impact extension since they are tougher, or better yet, re-adjusted the press and used a proper piece of metal. As usual, always wear your goggles.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7449.jpg]

Then, I supported the bearing race using appropriately sized random parts.

Stop pressing the bearing once it hits the Crush Sleeve.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7452.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7450.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7451.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7453.jpg]

Pinion Seal:

Drive the Pinion seal into the Diff Case using the old bearing race. I suppose these seals can be hammered on but I elected to use the press. It is much easier to control.

Use a bit of oil on the seal during this step.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7455.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7454.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7456.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7457.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7458.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7459.jpg]

Pinion Bearing Preload:

A Pinion Yoke holding tool is required to hold the Pinion while the preload is being set.

I modified my home brew crank lock tool by drilling an extra hole in it. If you don't have a something similar, you'll have to make something or buy a Pinion Yoke holding tool.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7465.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7461.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7460.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7462.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7463.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7464.jpg]

Lube the Pinion Yoke before installing it on the Shaft, where it will contact the lip of the seal.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7467.jpg]

Start the Pinion Nut by hand then grab as big a breaker bar as can. When cranking down on the nut you are compressing the Crush Sleeve. Once the slop in the Pinion bearings is taken up, start taking torque measurements with your 1/4" Beam Torque Wrench. There are numbers all over the internet for bearing preload values, I aimed for 15-20 inlb of running torque. If you torque it too much you're starting all over with a new Crush Sleeve and potentially a new outer bearing, so the key here is to creep up on the final setting. Crank about 1/32 of a turn, check the torque, repeat, once you are close it's surprising how fast the torque jumps up.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7466.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7468.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7469.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7470.jpg]

19 inlb of running torque. The initial torque required to start the Pinion moving is just higher than this.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7471.jpg]

Diff Installation:

If you haven't already, pop out the Lock Rings and install the new ones.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7472.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7473.jpg]

During these stages be extra vigilant about dirt and debris. Keep things as clean as possible. We aren't doing heart surgery but it's fun to pretend.

Drop the heart carefully into the Diff Case.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7474.jpg]

Replace the Bearing Cap o-rings, don't forget the shim that goes with the correct Bearing Cap, and add a bit of Diff Fluid to the o-ring before installation.

There are 2 Bearing Cap bolt holes on each side that penetrate into the Diff Case. I used sealant on these to prevent fluid getting through the threads. Torque all the Bearing Cap bolts in a progressive criss-cross pattern.

Bearing Cap Bolts:

12-off M8x25 - Gr 8.8 - 15 lb-ft

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7475.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7476.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7477.jpg]

Lube the Output Flanges with Diff Fluid and slide these in.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7478.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7479.jpg]

Diff Cover and odds and ends:

The OEM gasket for the Cover is paper, and it's up to you how you want to install this. From what I've read, it can be installed dry, with silicone sealant, with Dielectric Grease, etc, everything seems to work. I used some silicone sealant on both surfaces before putting the gasket on. Don't use too much or else it will squeeze into the Diff. As pictured there is too much, as I noticed some squeezed out the outside. In any case, make sure to let it completely dry before filling the Diff with fluid. Torque the fasteners in a progressive criss-cross pattern.

Diff Cover Bolts:

8-off M10x25 - Gr 8.8 - 30 lb-ft

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7490.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7491.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7489.jpg]

Install the Speed Sensor with new hardware and a new O-ring. I went to the hardware store with the old o-ring and found a near exact match from the bins. I should have written down the size. Anyone have it?

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7495.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7494.jpg]

Tap in the new Pinion Nut Retaining Plate with a big socket. I fudged one up trying to tap it in with a flat blade screw driver and it deformed it making it useless. Luckily I had ordered a spare.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7493.jpg]

I machined the surfaces of the drain / fill plugs to clean them up, then hit them with rattle can silver.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7496.jpg]

Add your favourite brand Diff Fluid in the 75W90 variety, and use new crush washers on the plugs.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7492.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7497.jpg]

Install the mounting brackets with new hardware and you're all done.

Rear Horizontal Support Bracket

2-off M12 x 1.5 x 50 - Gr 10.9 - 100 lb-ft

Front Support Bracket

3-off M14 x 1.5 x 25 - Gr 10.9 - 150 lb-ft

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7500.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7501.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7499.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7498.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7504.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7503.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7502.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7505.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7506.jpg]

I engraved the mileage, year, and my initials on a flat spot to record the rebuild.

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7508.jpg]

[https://s3.amazonaws.com/project-build-public/extra-large/0/0/0/0/0/7507.jpg]

Hope this helps someone.

Barry

== From the discussion ==
Useful additions from the [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=142750 32-post thread]:

* The author did not check backlash or mesh pattern. Reusing the old shims kept lash subjectively the same. References for setting lash/mesh: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=127886 t=127886], [https://www.bmw2002faq.com/articles.html/technical-articles/engine-and-drivetrain/strongest-2002-limited-slip-differential-build-r74 2002 FAQ LSD build] ([[tig]], [[Mike W.]], [[ElGuappo]]).
* Driveshaft flange is '''not''' pressed on — it slides off once the collar nut is out (Bentley wording is confusing). Medium-case 3.25 and 3.46 LSD collar nuts are '''M20 / 30 mm''' ([[freedspeak]]).
* Speed-sensor o-ring that fit: 3/32" wall, 1-5/16" ID, 1-1/8" OD ([[Conanblau]]).
* Metric Mechanic pinion preload: 14–16 in-lb rolling torque (crush collar). Carrier: 9–11 in-lb via shims. [https://metricmechanic.com/wp-content/uploads/2015/10/Differentials.pdf Differentials.pdf] page 8 ([[jhh925]]).
* Do not learn a press on this job. Align and press straight. First rebuild is a winter/no-rush project, not a weekend ([[q20v]]).
* The rebuilt example killed the speed-related cabin noise; worn tires then became the loudest thing left.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

M30 Flywheel

2026-08-13T22:53:44Z

Tig: Add flywheel comparison photo from discussion

By [[Mark 88/M5 Houston]], Sat Mar 03, 2007

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=29845 M30 flywheel information]

'''M30 Flywheel FAQ''' (Motronic controlled)

There are at lease two OEM solid (single mass) flywheels for the M30 Motronic controlled engines. The lighter of the flywheels was original equipment on the M30 Motronic controlled models and the NA (North American) production M5 and M6. ''The change over production date from the lighter to the heavier flywheel in the M30 Motronic controlled production run was January of 1984, February 1984 production vehicles should/would have the heavier flywheel. ''

Part number '''11 22 1 271 463''' is the early / M5 & M6 flywheel and it weighs 7.940 Kg. (17.47 Lbs.).

This flywheel was original equipment on the following models:

NA Production Models:

5 Series E28 Sedans: 533I, M5

6 Series E24 Coupes: 633Csi, M6

7 Series Sedans 733i

Euro/World production Models:

5 Series E28 Sedans: M5

6 Series E24 Coupes: 633Csi, 635Csi, M635CSi

7 Series Sedans 732I, 735i

Part Number '''11 22 1 289 244''' is the later M30 flywheel and it weighs 10.0 Kg (22.0 Lbs.).

This flywheel was original equipment on the following models:

NA Production Models:

5 Series E28 Sedans: 533I, 535i

6 Series E24 Coupes: 633Csi, 635CSi

7 Series Sedans 733I, 735i

Euro/World production Models:

5 Series E28 Sedans: 535I, M535i

6 Series E24 Coupes: 635Csi

7 Series Sedans 732I, 735i

'''Disclaimer:'''

1. This FAQ DOES NOT ADDRESS CLUTCH AND PRESSURE PLATE FITMENTS.

2. All information contained in this document was compiled from the BMW ETK 1.1.0 dated 20 November 2003 and verified with references current as of 7/28/08 with RealOEM and Maximillains online ETK.

== From the discussion ==
Side-by-side photo of the 535 vs M5 flywheel from [[DMNaskale]]: [http://www.naskale.com/BMWtechimages/535vsM5flywheel.jpg 535 vs M5 flywheel].
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Painting Moldings

2026-08-13T22:53:44Z

Tig: Add painting-moldings discussion tips

By [[M5BB]], Wed Jan 16, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=42469 Painting moldings- black, clear or other.]

I'm a professional wood finisher and I know you think... so what?

We'll it also help's me do a pretty damm good job of finishing metal and fiberglass. You should see my sailboat.

Aluminum moldings have to be primed with an etching type primer. That's the only way the paint will stay for any length of time. My black bumpers which many have seen were done that way. Sanding is important but you don't want to go so fine with the paper (no steelwool) that the surface is so slippery that nothing will stick to it.

The paint needs a tooth to hang on to. 400 wet sanding would be best. One other thing, before you start sanding wipe down all the molding with alcohol that you can get at the H store. And don't drink this stuff it will kill you. This will remove any wax, silicone (bad stuff for paint) or oil before you start sanding. You don't want to sand this stuff right into the surface.

If you think you might be too close to your paint, do the masking before you start sanding. You might have to replace some of it before painting but it's better than scratching your paint.

The primer Dupli-Color Self Etching Primer (it's green)can then be applied and then wet sand that with 600 paper. Careful don't sand it all off. The object is to get it smooth and fill any tiny voids. Put a few drops of dishwashing soap in a bucket of water and then dip the paper in the bucket.This helps the paper slide along and carry away the particles. Keep the water flowing or the paper will clog up and not sand. Don't be cheap about the paper either. It does not last very long and you'll just be waisting your time.

Take great care and time masking. Use the blue or green masking tape from the local H depot. Use it along the edges of the metal then use brown masking paper which comes in rolls at the H depot and run that along the first row of tape you applied and tape it to the first row of tape that is next to the metal. This masking paper is 12-15" wide so you should then put more rows or plastic sheeting to cover the body. You don't want primer and black paint on your white car.

Don't use newspaper as the ink can transfer to your paint.

Once you get a really good base coat of primer

Buy some Dupli-Color Trim Paint from NAPA or Pep Boys (there could be other suppliers). This is very professional paint in cans. The nozzle's are amazing.

You can change the fan spray to any angle you want so your hand movement will correspond with the angle of the molding you are working on. You can also wet sand this if you have some dust or problem areas. Oh, I forgot to tell you, get a tack rag at the H store and wipe the area very carefully right before you spray. This will pick up any dirt and remove it from the surface. Pay attention to the weather. Read the frigging can!!

If it's very high humidity your paint will not stick. Don't paint in the sun. The paint will dry to fast and look like flat black paint.

If it's a little cool out like 60 or so warm up the cans in front of a heater. Be careful not to get them to close as they will blow up! Go easy on the application, runs are a mess and can ruin everything you have done, trying to get them out. 3-4 fine coats are much better. Same with the primer.

Test spray on a smooth piece of cardboard so you can see how much paint comes out of the nozzle.

Questions??? Email me and I'll do my best to help you out. I can even give you a phone number as my typing skills suck.

I have used the basics of this process to put a clear finish on my chrome moldings that are beyond polish. The clear fills all the tiny cracks and makes them look clear and shiny again.

Clear acrylic made by guess who??? Dupli-Color.

Good luck and let me know how you do?

Man, that's more than I've typed in months.

== From the discussion ==
* The spray in the write-up is '''Dupli-Color''' trim paint (not "Du-Plo").
* SEM trim black is the other common brand; it is harder to find and not clearly better. Dupli-Color nozzles spray well and it sticks to plastic and metal if the prep is right ([[M5BB]], [[mogie]], [[Mike W.]]).
* [[John in VA]] has also used 3-in-1 or WD-40 on dulled aluminum trim for a short-term show shine (messy).
* [[mogie]] later switched to Transtar trim paint: smooth, fast dry; long-term durability unknown at the time of the post.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Odometer Gear Replacement

2026-08-13T22:53:43Z

Tig: Add odometer FAQ discussion tips

By [[Azure]], Wed Nov 22, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=26424 My Odometer stopped working! (Odo gear replacement)]

'''Problem:''' Odometer and tripmeter no longer function.

'''Cause:''' Old Odometer gears have stripped and no longer rotate the odometer.

'''Solution:''' Install new Odometer gears!

'''Disclaimer: You can potentially damage your instrument cluster beyond repair by attempting this fix, as the needles and other components of the cluster are fragile. Neither the author, mye28.com staff or members, odometergears.com staff or anyone else make any form of warranty express or implied. The author is in no way associated with odometergears.com, Jeff Kaplan or mye28.com.

These instructions are shown for this particular example of a 1987 BMW 535is. There may be variations in your vehicle due to manufacturing, conditions, problems, model, year or other differences.

You attempt this fix purely AT YOUR OWN RISK.

Artificially altering odometer readings is illegal.

'''

------------------------------------

Cluster removal:

Start by removing the instrument cluster, there are two screws holding it in which point upwards into the dash at the top of the cluster. The whole thing just pulls forward after this.

Remove the wires. There should be 5 main connectors and some bulbs. The 3 large cables pull right out once you've pulled the black centres on the connectors away from the cluster - they pop out, which allows the cable to be removed.

The two smaller (single wire) cables both pull downwards, after you've pulled out the black securing tray which you pull away from the cluster, after which it'll swing freely.

Remember when installing these two cables "Blau", that is, blue, refers to the colour of the connector, not the wire!

Any remaining bulb sockets (perhaps one or two) will pull straight out, no special attachments.

You can remove the cluster without removing the steering wheel by telescoping the wheel all the way towards you, you should be able to slide the cluster out towards the drivers door with some careful angling.

Consider that first part the test, if you can't figure out how to get the cluster out, you should perhaps think twice before taking the cluster apart... if you got that part ok... read on!

-------------------------------------------

Odometer Gear Replacement:

Remove the 8 screws shown in the picture below.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo01.JPG]

Lift the white portion of the cluster away from the black housing and sit it on its back, it should come away easily (I consider the back the facing you just removed the screws from).

You should end up with something like this:

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo02.JPG]

Next, you'll need to split the speedometer portion of the cluster out so you can access the gears. With the needles facing upwards, like in the picture below, you'll have to push out the speedo section. You do this by pushing it out of the cluster from the back. There is going to be some resistance as you're disconnecting a 5-pin connector as you do this. The connector is shown below - you'll want to push on the back of the cluster in the vicinity of this connector.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo03.JPG]

You should end up with this: (connector highlighted).

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo04.JPG]

Looking at the speedo section (now separated), you should be able to locate the odometer gears easily behind a clear plastic cover. Remove the two highlighted screws to access them (shown below). I've numbered the 3 gears which you should have received in your package, these are the ones you'll be replacing.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo05.JPG]

If you haven't already, you should check your package to make sure you got the correct stuff. I ordered mine from Jeff at Odometergears.com, real nice guy, and a 5erfest sponsor to boot! From here on, my guide covers his gearset - if you purchased yours from elsewhere, the instructions may vary somewhat.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo06.JPG]

Ok, with the screws removed you should be able to remove the clear plastic cover that holds the gears. Make sure you're somewhere clean as you might lose a shaft and/or the gears as you remove the cover as the grease on them tends to make them stick. You can see in this image my No3 and 1 gears are missing teeth. Aha! There's our problem! No1 (the small one) is the drive gear which turns and makes the odometer function.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo07.JPG]

Go ahead and remove the two shafts and the attached gears, and clean them down to remove the excess grease. In the image below, I have one shaft still installed along with gear 5 which we keep from the original set. You also see gear 1, which we're going to remove. Try to pull it off, it's pretty much going to turn to mush and fall to pieces, leaving a bronze insert stuck to the shaft.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo08.JPG]

You're going to need to remove the bronze insert from the shaft. This thing is a pain in the ass. What I did, if you see in the picture below, there's a piece of white straight flat plastic in the lower part of the picture. I used the side cutters on a pair of pliers to grasp the bronze insert, and used that piece of plastic as a fulcrum, then leveraged the insert off. That seemed to work best. Trying to pull it straight off with pliers didn't work for me. Your mileage might vary ( see below ).
[quote="Jeff@odometergears.com"]"You should squeeze the brass fitting tightly or firmly. Then with only your fingers, slide it off and toss it away. If you pull or pry it off with plyers, you could pull the whole shaft right out of the magnet and have real problems then."[/quote]

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo09.JPG]

Here's what you should have left now. Again, gears 3 2 and 1 we're replacing, gear 4 came off the cluster we're keeping. The three new gears are the ones lower in the picture (without the missing teeth!) ;)

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo10.JPG]

Go ahead and reinstall gear 5 and the shaft if you haven't already. Make sure gear 5 is oriented correctly so it mates up with the gears below it inside the cluster. Pop gear 4 back in (again, we're keeping from the cluster) and ensure it's installed so it mates up with gear 5. With the bronze insert removed, clean up the shaft at gear 1 well so there's no grease left on it. The new gear 1 is a direct press fit, so you want to make sure it sticks to the shaft well (this is the shaft that drives the gears remember). There will be some resistance as you push it on, give it a firm push and pop it on the shaft. In the picture below, gears 5, 4, and 1 are installed and correctly oriented.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo11.JPG]

Go ahead and take out your new gear 2 and install it on the shaft with gear 5. Ensure it mates up correctly with gear 4.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo12.JPG]

Take out your new gear 3 and install it on the shaft with gear 4. Make sure it mates up correctly with gears 1 and 2. You should be able to tell if everything is going to work now. When you rotate gear 1, the others should all turn... but don't turn them too much, your odometer is affected!

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo13.JPG]

Go ahead and reinstall the clear plastic cover now, making sure the two shafts marked in the picture below mate up with their respective holes in the cover. Replace the two screws that hold it in on. Voila! You now have a working odometer!

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo14.JPG]

Now all you have to do is install the speedo back into the cluster, (be careful with the 5-pin connector you disconnected earlier, you don't want to force it and bend it up!), place the cluster back into the black housing, put the 8 screws back in their respective locations and put the cluster back in. - Installation is the reverse of removal.

Congratulations!

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/odo15.JPG]

== From the discussion ==
* To get the bronze insert off the drive shaft, squeeze it hard with side cutters, then slide it off with your fingers. Prying can pull the shaft out of the magnet ([[jmc1590]], and Jeff at odometergears.com).
* Order the E28 package from odometergears.com — Jeff knows the tooth counts. You do not have to count teeth on a destroyed gear ([[jmc1590]]).
* Some '86 528e clusters have a small circuit board soldered to the clear gear cover. That cover will not come off like the one in the photos; forcing it breaks it. A later-style gearbox/speedo without that board swaps in ([[filmy]]).
* There are '''two''' blue (blau) elbow connectors on the cluster, plus white (weiss). One blue has two wires, the other has one. Mark which is which — they feed cruise or the temp gauge ([[filmy]]).
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Interior

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{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Interior FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[On-Board Computer (OBC II)]]
| Time, units, CODE, range, PPPP
|-
| [[OBC I Went Dead]]
| Inline fuse inside the early OBC
|-
| [[Odometer Gear Replacement]]
| Replace stripped cluster odometer gears
|-
| [[Radio Wiring]]
| Aftermarket radio on the factory harness
|-
| [[Cruise Control Doesn't Work]]
| Brake-light ground, pedal switches, brain, servo
|-
| [[Dashboard Cracks]]
| Dash pad cracks
|-
| [[Power Window Issues]]
| Motors, regulators, switches
|-
| [[Power Headrests Won't Move]]
| Drive-cable engagement in the motor
|-
| [[No Heat From Dash Vents]]
| Dash vents designed not to blow heat
|-
| [[Heat Works at Idle But Not at Speed]]
| Heater valve / vacuum / water valve
|-
| [[Heater Motor Squeals]]
| Blower motor clean, lube, or replace
|}

Cruise control, an on-board computer (to display trip information), and a "check control" panel (to alert the driver about fluid levels and lighting faults) were introduced to the 5 Series on the E28. The glazing is made of single-pane safety glass, the windscreen has laminated glass.

== Interior Materials and Colors Availability (EU) ==
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Vinyl'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0165 Perlbgeige
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0126 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0164 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0005 Schwarz
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0105 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Cord Fabric (518i and Gov. only)'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0172 Perlbgeige
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0125 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0171 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0120 Anthrazit
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0121 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Velour "Fischgrät Pattern"'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0170 Perlbgeige
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0133 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0169 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0129 Anthrazit
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0130 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Leather'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0206 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0209 Lama
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0205 Nutria
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0208 Taurusrot
|
|
|
|X
|
|
|-
|0203 Schwarz
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0204 Pacific
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0256 Cardinalrot
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|'''Velour w/ vertically woven stripes'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0260 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0261 Piniengrün
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0259 Nutria
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0257 Anthrazit
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0258 Pacific
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0262 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0263 Piniengrün
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0264 Nutria
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0262 Anthrazit
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0263 Pacific
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|}
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Body

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{{PAGEBANNER:|toc=yes}}

== Body FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Euro Bumper Install]]
| Fit euro bumpers to a US E28
|-
| [[Painting Moldings]]
| Black or clear coat on body moldings
|-
| [[535is Front Airdam Mounting]]
| Factory 535is airdam install sheet
|-
| [[How to Open the Hood From Outside]]
| Release the latches when the cable breaks
|-
| [[Wetness in the Trunk]]
| Tail-light seals and sunroof drains
|-
| [[Car Squeaks and Rattles]]
| Common squeak and rattle sources
|-
| [[Dashboard Cracks]]
| Dash pad cracks
|}

The E28 has a self-supporting body that is welded to the body platform. The passenger cell is a safety passenger cell with deformation elements both in the front and rear of the vehicle. Unlike its E12 predecessor and E34 successor, the E28 has a rear-hinged bonnet. The boot has a volume of 460 L (122 US gal). Most models have a fuel tank capacity of 70 L (18 US gal), with some models having a smaller tank of 63 litres (17 US gal). The kerb weight is 1,140–1,410 kg (2,513–3,109 lb).

== Paint ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+European Market Availabilty
!Color
!1982
!1983
!1984
!1985
!1986
!1987
!1988
|-
|045 Arktisblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|052 Hennarot
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|060 Polaris-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|086 Schwarz
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|087 Graphit-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|128 Gazellenbeige
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|138 Zinnoberrot
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|139 Bronzitbeige-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|143 Kaschmir-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|146 Alpinweiß
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|147 Safaribeige
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|149 Saphirblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|151 Ascotgrau-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|152 Zypressengrün-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|154 Brasilbraun-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|157 Kastanienrot-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|170 Bahamabeige-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|171 Opalgrün-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|172 Karminrot
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|173 Lapisblau
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|176 Saturnblau
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|177 Achatgrün-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|178 Balticblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|179 Akaziengrün
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|180 Basaltblau
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|181 Diamantschwarz-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|182 Smaragdgrün-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|184 Delphin-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|185 Cosmosblau-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|187 Savannabeige
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|188 Platanengrün-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|189 Cirrusblau-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|194 Pußtagrün
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|196 Zobelbraun-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|199 Burgundrot-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|203 Lachssilber-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|205 Malchitgrün-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|207 Atlantisblau
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|212 Nerzbraun-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|214 Akaziengrün
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|214 Burgundrot II-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|219 Luxorbeige-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|224 Weinrot
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|231 Mineralblau
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|}

== Bumpers ==
US v Euro

Euro bumper conversions

== Rear Spoiler ==
variants

== Touring ==
Shultz etc…

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Brakes

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{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Brake FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Front End Vibration While Braking]]
| Control-arm bushings or rotors
|-
| [[Brake Pedal Pulses After Hard Use]]
| Warped rotors after a track day
|-
| [[Brake Rotor Retaining Screw]]
| Drill or break the rusted locator screw
|-
| [[Delayed Braking Reaction]]
| Failed brake accumulator (bomb)
|-
| [[Parking Brake Button Stuck]]
| Slide the grip back on the handle
|}

The brakes use a hydraulic dual-circuit brake system with power assistance. The front wheels have disc brakes, that are – except for the 518i – internally ventilated. All models with 2.5L or more displacement have rear disc brakes (non-vented), while the lesser powered models have rear drum brakes. To prevent the wheels from locking, BMW equipped the E28 after 1984 with an anti-lock braking system, although it was an option in some markets.
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Suspension

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{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Suspension FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
| Steering-box bracket / subframe reinforcement
|-
| [[Steering]]
| Steering boxes and identification
|-
| [[Steering Knock When Turning]]
| Knock or clunk in the steering when turning
|-
| [[Ground Control Coilover Install]]
| Ground Control coilover install
|}

Independent front and rear suspension is used, with Macpherson struts at the front and a semi-trailing arm design for the rear.

The front suspension was upgraded to use dual links at the bottom of the strut, as first seen on the E23 7 Series. This increases steering offset while cornering, to improve steering feel. Double-acting shock absorbers, coil springs and a front anti-roll bar are used.

The rear suspension is mounted on a delta beam that is connected to the body with three screws in rubber bearings, that have longitudinal play. Some models have a rear anti-roll bar.

The steering on most models is a speed-dependent recirculating ball power steering system made by ZF Friedrichshafen. The 518i has a Gemmer steering system with a double enveloping worm gear, also made by ZF.

Wheel sizes are 14-inch (16-inch for the M5 model) or 390mm Michelin TRX. All rims have 22 mm positive rim offset.

== Front ==

== Steering ==
See [[Steering]].
* [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
* Power Steering Filter Change - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N2kfIh9wYI Youtube Video]

== Rear ==

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Drivetrain

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{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Drivetrain FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Differentials]]
| What came in the car, ratios, LSD options
|-
| [[Medium Case Differential Rebuild]]
| Step-by-step medium-case diff rebuild
|-
| [[LSD Clutch Replacement]]
| Replace LSD clutches
|-
| [[Shifters]]
| Shift levers, consoles, and linkage
|-
| [[CV Boot Replacement]]
| CV boot / half-axle rebuild
|-
| [[Clutch Hard to Depress]]
| Hydraulics, disc, or pedal issues
|-
| [[Rear End Feels Detached]]
| Guibo, center bearing, subframe bushings
|-
| [[Clunking Under the Car When Accelerating]]
| Guibo / center bearing / diff mount
|-
| [[Clunking in Reverse]]
| Broken differential mount
|}

This page is the transmissions overview. Gearbox ratios: [https://bigcoupe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=18798 bigcoupe t=18798].

BMW offered the E28 with both manual and automatic gearboxes. The torque is transmitted from the engine with a single-disc dry clutch with a torsional damper in the models with a manual gearbox, the automatic models have a torque converter with built in lockup-clutch.

== Manual transmissions ==
The 5-speed manual transmissions are:

* Getrag 242 (for M10 and M20 engine models)
* Getrag 262 (M30 engines)

The 5-speed manual transmissions are:

* Getrag 240 (M10 and M21 engines)
* Getrag 245 (M10 engines)
* Getrag 260 (M20, M21 and M30 engines)
* Getrag 265 (M30 engines and 525e/528e)
* Getrag 280 (M88/3 and S38 engines)
* ZF S5-16 (M20 engines)

==== '''G260/5''' ====
Used on 5/6/733s from '83-'84. Non removable bell housing, waffle pattern for case casting. Considered weak and cannot accommodate a M5 clutch. Sheet metal shifter support. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G260/5''' ====
[[File:Getrag 265-6.jpg|thumb|Getrag 265-6]]
Used on '83-'88 528es, and E30 6 cylinder cars.

Same model number as above, but different bell housing bolt pattern and shape, so it’s not interchangeable.

Some or most or all of the internal parts may be, but with the cost of used transmissions, it’s irrelevant.

Used sheet metal support thru about 86, then used the cast support. Waffle case pattern. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G260/6''' ====
Used on '86-'88 535’s and E34 535s, but they may not have the flywheel sensor holes drilled out.

Identify it by the fins on the bottom of the transmission and non-removable case. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G265/6''' ====
[[File:265-5 vs 265-6.jpg|thumb|265/5 vs. the 265/6.]]
[[File:G265-6 from a 1985 535.jpg|thumb|G265/6 from a 1985 535]]
Used on '82 528e and '85 535i. Also on '85 6/735, '80-'81 E12, '81-'82 6/733s and E30 M3s.

Considered the strongest transmission available for E28’s.

Is easily identified by a removable bell housing which allows use on M10, M20 and M30 engines, as long as the correct bell housing is used or reused. All except M3s have a sheet metal shifter support.

It’s use in '85 M30 powered cars was reportedly dictated by the short life of the 260/5 in those cars. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G280''' ====
Used on M5/M6s. Close ratio, but overdrive 5th gear.

==== '''G265/5''' ====
[[File:Getrag 265-5.jpg|thumb|Getrag 265/5]]
Never available on US spec cars, it's a close ratio 5 speed similar to the 265/6 overdrive transmission.

5th gear is 1:1. Often incorrectly called a 262 close ratio or dogleg, but a 262 is a 4 speed transmission.

All 265’s I’ve seen have the front case casting with a 262xxx casting number, but they are 265s if they are 5 speeds. Removable bell housing and it does have an unusual shift pattern with 1st being off by itself and 4th/5th across from each other instead of 5th being up by itself.

Most or all of the linkage parts seem to be model specific, the sheet metal shifter supports while they look the same, aren’t, even if from the same transmission and for the same chassis, i.e. one from a G265 from a 528e won’t work on a G265 in a 535i. I assume this is also the case for the later cast aluminum shifter supports, but I haven’t verified it myself.

{| class="wikitable"
|+GEARBOX RATIOS
!
!G260/5, 260/6,
265/5, 265/6
!265/5 Close Ratio
"Dogleg"
(n/a in US cars)
!280/5
(E28 M5)
!262
(4-speed)
|-
|1st
|3.83:1
(265/6: 3.82:1)
|3.72:1
|3.51:1
|3.86:1
|-
|2nd
|2.20:1
|2.40:1
|2.08:1
|2.00:1
|-
|3rd
|1.40:1
|1.77:1
|1.35:1
|1.40:1
|-
|4th
|1.00:1
|1.26:1
|1.00:1
|1.00:1
|-
|5th
|0.81:1 (overdr.)
|1.00:1
|0.81:1 (overdr.)
|n/a
|-
|reverse
|3.46:1
(265/6: 3.71:1)
|4.23:1
|3.73:1
|4.23:1
|-
|Oil cap
|1.25L or 1.32Qt.
|
|1.25L or 1.32Qt.
|
|}
(source: post made by user "Chris Wright" on Aug 30, 2012 on bigcoupe.com - link below)

== Automatic transmissions ==
The 3-speed automatic transmissions are:

* ZF 3HP22 (M20 and M30 engines, US market only)

The 4-speed automatic transmissions are:

* ZF 4HP22 (M10, M20, M21)
* ZF 4HP22 EH (M20, M30)

==== '''3HP22''' ====
3 speed automatic used on all US spec BMW automatic cars from '77-'83. A very reliable and long lasting transmission, but only a 1:1 high gear. Bell housing specific, as I mentioned, they were used on many different models, with different bell housings. And Motronic cars need one with holes for the Motronic flywheel sensors. It requires a 3HP22 Motronic flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 4HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.

==== '''4HP22''' ====
4 speed automatic. Again, used across the entire model line from '84 until at least the late '80’s. Has a quirk about burning out the “A” clutch pack if revved in neutral or park after it has been in any gear. Many feel it is a poor transmission, but I disagree, it seems to last longer than most automatic transmissions of it’s era, especially if taken care of, but it doesn’t tend to hold up as well as a manual. Outside of the aforementioned quirk, it seems to hold up well, especially in M20 powered cars. Like it’s predecessor, the 3HP22, it seems to respond well to regular fluid changes. While most are intimidated, it’s not a difficult transmission to work on, and if the somewhat infamous “A” clutch pack is the only repair required, it’s no more difficult than doing a clutch in a manual car. Like the 3 speed 3HP22, while it was used across the line, you need the correct one for the engine/bell housing if you are replacing one. Some have reported using a M20 transmission with a M30 bell housing and torque converter, and I have a good reference that says it works, but I haven’t verified it myself. Many of the “soft parts” meaning clutches and friction materials are the same as in the 3HP22. Not similar, but the same. It requires a 4HP22 flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 3HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.

'''4HP22-EH'''

4 speed automatic, electronically controlled. Very similar mechanically to the 4HP22, but with solenoids making the shifts instead of hydraulics. Optional on M30 cars starting in '86, it has a choice of 3 different shift patterns, economy, normal and sport. Some feel it is better than the base 4HP22, some feel it is worse, my opinion is mostly it is just different. It does have a 3rd gear only “limp home” mode it can go into if there is a problem with the wiring or the ECU. It was used later E23 745i's, and 3HP22's on the early ones, so BMW had some confidence in it’s capability. It requires a 4HP22 flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 3HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.Both the 3HP22 and 4HP22 can have the shift points adjusted somewhat by adjusting the cable on the throttle body going down to the transmission. Spec is something like .080” between the ferrule and the cable housing, but tightening it raises shift points, loosening it lowers shift points. Be gentle and make minor changes, but a minor adjustment can make a distinct improvement in how the car drives if it is shifting up too early. '''5 speed conversions:''' Many here have converted autos to 5 speeds, and maybe a couple have even done the reverse. It's pretty straightforward, but you need all the bits, from the flywheel and flywheel bolts, all the way to the end of the driveshaft. And the pedals, and pedal bracket, and shift linkage and support. Ideally you will be getting everything from a single donor car so you can grab everything, but that isn't always possible.

== Differentials ==
See [[Differentials]].

== Shifters ==
See [[Shifters]].

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Engines

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{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

== Engine FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[M30 Cooling System Bleeding]]
| Bleed an M30 (also works on M20)
|-
| [[M30 Valve Adjustment]]
| M30 valve lash / eccentric adjustment
|-
| [[TDC Mark on the Harmonic Balancer]]
| Verify the TDC mark
|-
| [[M30 Flywheel]]
| M30 flywheel types and swap notes
|-
| [[M30 Starter Removal]]
| Tip for dropping the M30 starter
|-
| [[M30 Engine Rebuild Tips & FAQ]]
| M30 rebuild notes
|-
| [[AFM vs MAF]]
| E28s use an AFM, not a MAF
|-
| [[Spark Plug FAQ]]
| Which spark plugs to use
|-
| [[M20 - e2i Conversion]]
| M20B27 eta-to-i conversion
|-
| [[Gas Leak Under the Intake Manifold]]
| Cold-start injector / fuel leak under intake
|-
| [[Fuel Smell After Filling the Tank]]
| Overflow / charcoal canister / filler neck
|-
| [[Running Issues Below a Quarter Tank]]
| Fuel pickup / sender issues when low
|}

See also the [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306 M30B35 Swap] forum FAQ.

The BMW E28, produced from 1981 to 1988, was the second generation of the 5 Series and featured a wide range of engines tailored to different markets worldwide.

=== Summary by Region ===

* '''Europe''': Full range, including low-displacement economy models like the 518 and 518i, as well as high-performance models like the M535i and M5.
* '''North America''': Emphasis on larger engines like the 528e, 533i, 535i, and the M5, with stricter emissions requirements reducing power output.
* '''South Africa''': Unique combinations like the S38-powered M5 and the 518 with the M10 engine.
* '''Other Regions''': A mix of economy models and mid-range offerings like the 520i and 528i, depending on local demand and taxation rules.

== Petrol Engines ==

=== 4-Cylinder Petrol Engines ===

==== M10 Series ====

* '''M10B18''' (518):
** 1766cc, SOHC, carbureted.
** Power: 90 hp (66 kW).
** Markets: Europe and other regions with an emphasis on economy.
* '''M10B18 LE-Jetronic''' (518i):
** 1766cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 105 hp (77 kW).
** Markets: Europe.

----

=== 6-Cylinder Petrol Engines ===

==== M20 Series ====

* '''M20B20''' (520i):
** 1991cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 125 hp (93 kW).
** Markets: Europe.
* '''M20B27''' (525e/528e):
** 2693cc, SOHC, low-revving, economy-focused.
** Power: 121–129 hp (90–95 kW).
** Markets: North America, Europe, and other regions.

==== M30 Series ====

* '''M30B28''' (528i):
** 2788cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 181 hp (135 kW).
** Markets: Europe and other global markets.
* '''M30B30''' (530i):
** 2986cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 177 hp (132 kW).
** Markets: North America (1981–1982 models only).
* '''M30B32''' (533i):
** 3210cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 181 hp (135 kW).
** Markets: North America (1983–1984).
* '''M30B34''' (535i, 535is):
** 3430cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 182–218 hp (135–162 kW) depending on market and emissions equipment.
** Markets: North America, Europe, and other regions.

==== M88/S38 High-Performance Engines ====

* '''M88/3''' (M5):
** 3453cc, DOHC, individual throttle bodies.
** Power: 286 hp (210 kW).
** Markets: Europe.
* '''S38B35''' (M5):
** 3453cc, DOHC, individual throttle bodies.
** Power: 256 hp (191 kW).
** Markets: North America, South Africa.

== Diesel Engines ==

=== 6-Cylinder Diesel Engines (M21 Series) ===

==== M21D24 ====

* '''Turbocharged''':
** Displacement: 2443cc, SOHC.
** Power: 113 hp (83 kW).
** Models: 524td.
** Markets: North America, Europe, South Africa.
* '''Naturally Aspirated''':
** Displacement: 2443cc, SOHC.
** Power: 86 hp (63 kW).
** Models: 524d.
** Markets: Europe

== E28 Engine Swaps ==
Common swaps include
=== M30B35 ===
[[File:M30B35in535is.jpg|thumb|M30B35 in an 87 535is]]The M30B35 is the final iteration of BMW's M30 engine series, featuring a displacement of 3430cc and a compression ratio of 9:1. It was installed in late-production 1987-1989 E24 635CSi, 1988-1992 E32 735i/L, and 1988-1993 E34 535i models. This engine produces 208 hp at 5700 rpm and 225 ft-lb of torque at 4000 rpm. Notable identifiers include a valve cover labeled "BMW" and an intake manifold with "3.5" cast on the plenum.

See the [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306 M30B35 Swap] Tech FAQ.

=== S54 ===
[[File:S54 in an E28.jpg|thumb|300x300px]]The S54 is the high-performance iteration of BMW's inline-six engine series, featuring a displacement of 3246cc and a compression ratio of 11.5:1. It was installed in the 2001–2006 E46 M3, 2001–2002 Z3 M Coupe/Roadster, and 2006–2008 Z4 M Coupe/Roadster models. This engine produces 333 hp at 7900 rpm and 262 ft-lb of torque at 4900 rpm in its standard configuration. Notable identifiers include an individual throttle body system for each cylinder, a high-revving valvetrain, and a distinctive cast aluminum valve cover labeled "BMW M Power."

These threads have tons on info on S54 swaps:

* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=115262 E28 M5 with S54]
* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=108450 E28 S54 Porn, heavy pics]
* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=137105 Minerva: The S54 powered, better than new, E28]

=== M54 ===
The M54 is a naturally aspirated inline-six engine from BMW's M family, featuring a displacement range of 2494cc to 2979cc depending on the variant (M54B25, M54B30). It was installed in a wide range of BMW models from 2000 to 2006, including the E46 3 Series, E39 5 Series, E60 5 Series, E53 X5, Z3, and Z4. In its most powerful form, the M54B30 produces 225 hp at 5900 rpm and 214 ft-lb of torque at 3500 rpm. Notable identifiers include a magnesium valve cover, a variable-length intake manifold, and the use of BMW's VANOS variable valve timing system for improved efficiency and performance.

=== M20 - e2i Conversion ===
The '''M20 "e2i" conversion''' is a popular modification for BMW enthusiasts seeking to enhance the performance of the M20B27 engine found in "eta" models by integrating components from the higher-revving M20B25 "i" engine. This conversion combines the torque-rich characteristics of the eta engine with the improved airflow and higher RPM capabilities of the "i" engine.

See [[M20 - e2i Conversion]].

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Tires and Wheels

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== Wheel and Tire FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[The BMW E28 Wheel and Tire Tutorial]]
| Fitment, offsets, and tire sizes
|-
| [[Later Center Caps Don't Fit the Front]]
| E34-style caps vs E28 front hubs
|-
| [[Wheel Balance Issues With Later Wheels]]
| Later BMW wheels and balance weights
|}

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Interior

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Cruise control, an on-board computer (to display trip information), and a "check control" panel (to alert the driver about fluid levels and lighting faults) were introduced to the 5 Series on the E28. The glazing is made of single-pane safety glass, the windscreen has laminated glass.

== Interior Materials and Colors Availability (EU) ==
{| class="wikitable"
|'''Vinyl'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0165 Perlbgeige
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0126 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0164 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0005 Schwarz
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0105 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Cord Fabric (518i and Gov. only)'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0172 Perlbgeige
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0125 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0171 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0120 Anthrazit
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0121 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Velour "Fischgrät Pattern"'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0170 Perlbgeige
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0133 Piniengrün
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0169 Nutria
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|0129 Anthrazit
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0130 Pacific
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|'''Leather'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0206 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0209 Lama
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0205 Nutria
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0208 Taurusrot
|
|
|
|X
|
|
|-
|0203 Schwarz
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0204 Pacific
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|-
|0256 Cardinalrot
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|'''Velour w/ vertically woven stripes'''
|'''1982'''
|'''1983'''
|'''1984'''
|'''1985'''
|'''1986'''
|'''1987'''
|-
|0260 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0261 Piniengrün
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0259 Nutria
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0257 Anthrazit
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0258 Pacific
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0262 Perlbgeige
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0263 Piniengrün
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0264 Nutria
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0262 Anthrazit
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|0263 Pacific
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|}
== Interior FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[On-Board Computer (OBC II)]]
| Time, units, CODE, range, PPPP
|-
| [[OBC I Went Dead]]
| Inline fuse inside the early OBC
|-
| [[Odometer Gear Replacement]]
| Replace stripped cluster odometer gears
|-
| [[Radio Wiring]]
| Aftermarket radio on the factory harness
|-
| [[Cruise Control Doesn't Work]]
| Brake-light ground, pedal switches, brain, servo
|-
| [[Dashboard Cracks]]
| Dash pad cracks
|-
| [[Power Window Issues]]
| Motors, regulators, switches
|-
| [[Power Headrests Won't Move]]
| Drive-cable engagement in the motor
|-
| [[No Heat From Dash Vents]]
| Dash vents designed not to blow heat
|-
| [[Heat Works at Idle But Not at Speed]]
| Heater valve / vacuum / water valve
|-
| [[Heater Motor Squeals]]
| Blower motor clean, lube, or replace
|}
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Body

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Tig: Add Body FAQs table from Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:|toc=yes}}
The E28 has a self-supporting body that is welded to the body platform. The passenger cell is a safety passenger cell with deformation elements both in the front and rear of the vehicle. Unlike its E12 predecessor and E34 successor, the E28 has a rear-hinged bonnet. The boot has a volume of 460 L (122 US gal). Most models have a fuel tank capacity of 70 L (18 US gal), with some models having a smaller tank of 63 litres (17 US gal). The kerb weight is 1,140–1,410 kg (2,513–3,109 lb).

== Paint ==
{| class="wikitable"
|+European Market Availabilty
!Color
!1982
!1983
!1984
!1985
!1986
!1987
!1988
|-
|045 Arktisblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|052 Hennarot
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|060 Polaris-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|086 Schwarz
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|087 Graphit-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|128 Gazellenbeige
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|138 Zinnoberrot
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|139 Bronzitbeige-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|143 Kaschmir-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|146 Alpinweiß
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|147 Safaribeige
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|149 Saphirblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|151 Ascotgrau-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|152 Zypressengrün-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|154 Brasilbraun-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|157 Kastanienrot-metallic
|X
|
|
|
|
|
|
|-
|170 Bahamabeige-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|171 Opalgrün-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|172 Karminrot
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|173 Lapisblau
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|176 Saturnblau
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|
|-
|177 Achatgrün-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|178 Balticblau-metallic
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|179 Akaziengrün
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|180 Basaltblau
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|181 Diamantschwarz-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|182 Smaragdgrün-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|184 Delphin-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|185 Cosmosblau-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|187 Savannabeige
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|188 Platanengrün-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|189 Cirrusblau-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|194 Pußtagrün
|X
|X
|X
|
|
|
|
|-
|196 Zobelbraun-metallic
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|199 Burgundrot-metallic
|
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|X
|-
|203 Lachssilber-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|205 Malchitgrün-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|207 Atlantisblau
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|212 Nerzbraun-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|214 Akaziengrün
|
|
|
|X
|X
|
|
|-
|214 Burgundrot II-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|
|-
|219 Luxorbeige-metallic
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|X
|-
|224 Weinrot
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|-
|231 Mineralblau
|
|
|
|
|
|
|X
|}

== Bumpers ==
US v Euro

Euro bumper conversions

== Rear Spoiler ==
variants

== Touring ==
Shultz etc…

== Body FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Euro Bumper Install]]
| Fit euro bumpers to a US E28
|-
| [[Painting Moldings]]
| Black or clear coat on body moldings
|-
| [[535is Front Airdam Mounting]]
| Factory 535is airdam install sheet
|-
| [[How to Open the Hood From Outside]]
| Release the latches when the cable breaks
|-
| [[Wetness in the Trunk]]
| Tail-light seals and sunroof drains
|-
| [[Car Squeaks and Rattles]]
| Common squeak and rattle sources
|-
| [[Dashboard Cracks]]
| Dash pad cracks
|}
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Brakes

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Tig: Add Brake FAQs table from Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}
The brakes use a hydraulic dual-circuit brake system with power assistance. The front wheels have disc brakes, that are – except for the 518i – internally ventilated. All models with 2.5L or more displacement have rear disc brakes (non-vented), while the lesser powered models have rear drum brakes. To prevent the wheels from locking, BMW equipped the E28 after 1984 with an anti-lock braking system, although it was an option in some markets.
== Brake FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Front End Vibration While Braking]]
| Control-arm bushings or rotors
|-
| [[Brake Pedal Pulses After Hard Use]]
| Warped rotors after a track day
|-
| [[Brake Rotor Retaining Screw]]
| Drill or break the rusted locator screw
|-
| [[Delayed Braking Reaction]]
| Failed brake accumulator (bomb)
|-
| [[Parking Brake Button Stuck]]
| Slide the grip back on the handle
|}
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Suspension

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Tig: Add Suspension FAQs table from Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}
Independent front and rear suspension is used, with Macpherson struts at the front and a semi-trailing arm design for the rear.

The front suspension was upgraded to use dual links at the bottom of the strut, as first seen on the E23 7 Series. This increases steering offset while cornering, to improve steering feel. Double-acting shock absorbers, coil springs and a front anti-roll bar are used.

The rear suspension is mounted on a delta beam that is connected to the body with three screws in rubber bearings, that have longitudinal play. Some models have a rear anti-roll bar.

The steering on most models is a speed-dependent recirculating ball power steering system made by ZF Friedrichshafen. The 518i has a Gemmer steering system with a double enveloping worm gear, also made by ZF.

Wheel sizes are 14-inch (16-inch for the M5 model) or 390mm Michelin TRX. All rims have 22 mm positive rim offset.

== Front ==

== Steering ==
See [[Steering]].
* [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
* Power Steering Filter Change - [https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_N2kfIh9wYI Youtube Video]

== Rear ==

== Suspension FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Subframe and Steering Reinforcement]]
| Steering-box bracket / subframe reinforcement
|-
| [[Steering]]
| Steering boxes and identification
|-
| [[Steering Knock When Turning]]
| Knock or clunk in the steering when turning
|-
| [[Ground Control Coilover Install]]
| Ground Control coilover install
|}
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Drivetrain

2026-08-13T22:29:36Z

Tig: Add Drivetrain FAQs table from Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}
BMW offered the E28 with both manual and automatic gearboxes. The torque is transmitted from the engine with a single-disc dry clutch with a torsional damper in the models with a manual gearbox, the automatic models have a torque converter with built in lockup-clutch.

== Manual transmissions ==
The 5-speed manual transmissions are:

* Getrag 242 (for M10 and M20 engine models)
* Getrag 262 (M30 engines)

The 5-speed manual transmissions are:

* Getrag 240 (M10 and M21 engines)
* Getrag 245 (M10 engines)
* Getrag 260 (M20, M21 and M30 engines)
* Getrag 265 (M30 engines and 525e/528e)
* Getrag 280 (M88/3 and S38 engines)
* ZF S5-16 (M20 engines)

==== '''G260/5''' ====
Used on 5/6/733s from '83-'84. Non removable bell housing, waffle pattern for case casting. Considered weak and cannot accommodate a M5 clutch. Sheet metal shifter support. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G260/5''' ====
[[File:Getrag 265-6.jpg|thumb|Getrag 265-6]]
Used on '83-'88 528es, and E30 6 cylinder cars.

Same model number as above, but different bell housing bolt pattern and shape, so it’s not interchangeable.

Some or most or all of the internal parts may be, but with the cost of used transmissions, it’s irrelevant.

Used sheet metal support thru about 86, then used the cast support. Waffle case pattern. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G260/6''' ====
Used on '86-'88 535’s and E34 535s, but they may not have the flywheel sensor holes drilled out.

Identify it by the fins on the bottom of the transmission and non-removable case. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G265/6''' ====
[[File:265-5 vs 265-6.jpg|thumb|265/5 vs. the 265/6.]]
[[File:G265-6 from a 1985 535.jpg|thumb|G265/6 from a 1985 535]]
Used on '82 528e and '85 535i. Also on '85 6/735, '80-'81 E12, '81-'82 6/733s and E30 M3s.

Considered the strongest transmission available for E28’s.

Is easily identified by a removable bell housing which allows use on M10, M20 and M30 engines, as long as the correct bell housing is used or reused. All except M3s have a sheet metal shifter support.

It’s use in '85 M30 powered cars was reportedly dictated by the short life of the 260/5 in those cars. Overdrive 5th.

==== '''G280''' ====
Used on M5/M6s. Close ratio, but overdrive 5th gear.

==== '''G265/5''' ====
[[File:Getrag 265-5.jpg|thumb|Getrag 265/5]]
Never available on US spec cars, it's a close ratio 5 speed similar to the 265/6 overdrive transmission.

5th gear is 1:1. Often incorrectly called a 262 close ratio or dogleg, but a 262 is a 4 speed transmission.

All 265’s I’ve seen have the front case casting with a 262xxx casting number, but they are 265s if they are 5 speeds. Removable bell housing and it does have an unusual shift pattern with 1st being off by itself and 4th/5th across from each other instead of 5th being up by itself.

Most or all of the linkage parts seem to be model specific, the sheet metal shifter supports while they look the same, aren’t, even if from the same transmission and for the same chassis, i.e. one from a G265 from a 528e won’t work on a G265 in a 535i. I assume this is also the case for the later cast aluminum shifter supports, but I haven’t verified it myself.

{| class="wikitable"
|+GEARBOX RATIOS
!
!G260/5, 260/6,
265/5, 265/6
!265/5 Close Ratio
"Dogleg"
(n/a in US cars)
!280/5
(E28 M5)
!262
(4-speed)
|-
|1st
|3.83:1
(265/6: 3.82:1)
|3.72:1
|3.51:1
|3.86:1
|-
|2nd
|2.20:1
|2.40:1
|2.08:1
|2.00:1
|-
|3rd
|1.40:1
|1.77:1
|1.35:1
|1.40:1
|-
|4th
|1.00:1
|1.26:1
|1.00:1
|1.00:1
|-
|5th
|0.81:1 (overdr.)
|1.00:1
|0.81:1 (overdr.)
|n/a
|-
|reverse
|3.46:1
(265/6: 3.71:1)
|4.23:1
|3.73:1
|4.23:1
|-
|Oil cap
|1.25L or 1.32Qt.
|
|1.25L or 1.32Qt.
|
|}
(source: post made by user "Chris Wright" on Aug 30, 2012 on bigcoupe.com - link below)

== Automatic transmissions ==
The 3-speed automatic transmissions are:

* ZF 3HP22 (M20 and M30 engines, US market only)

The 4-speed automatic transmissions are:

* ZF 4HP22 (M10, M20, M21)
* ZF 4HP22 EH (M20, M30)

==== '''3HP22''' ====
3 speed automatic used on all US spec BMW automatic cars from '77-'83. A very reliable and long lasting transmission, but only a 1:1 high gear. Bell housing specific, as I mentioned, they were used on many different models, with different bell housings. And Motronic cars need one with holes for the Motronic flywheel sensors. It requires a 3HP22 Motronic flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 4HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.

==== '''4HP22''' ====
4 speed automatic. Again, used across the entire model line from '84 until at least the late '80’s. Has a quirk about burning out the “A” clutch pack if revved in neutral or park after it has been in any gear. Many feel it is a poor transmission, but I disagree, it seems to last longer than most automatic transmissions of it’s era, especially if taken care of, but it doesn’t tend to hold up as well as a manual. Outside of the aforementioned quirk, it seems to hold up well, especially in M20 powered cars. Like it’s predecessor, the 3HP22, it seems to respond well to regular fluid changes. While most are intimidated, it’s not a difficult transmission to work on, and if the somewhat infamous “A” clutch pack is the only repair required, it’s no more difficult than doing a clutch in a manual car. Like the 3 speed 3HP22, while it was used across the line, you need the correct one for the engine/bell housing if you are replacing one. Some have reported using a M20 transmission with a M30 bell housing and torque converter, and I have a good reference that says it works, but I haven’t verified it myself. Many of the “soft parts” meaning clutches and friction materials are the same as in the 3HP22. Not similar, but the same. It requires a 4HP22 flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 3HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.

'''4HP22-EH'''

4 speed automatic, electronically controlled. Very similar mechanically to the 4HP22, but with solenoids making the shifts instead of hydraulics. Optional on M30 cars starting in '86, it has a choice of 3 different shift patterns, economy, normal and sport. Some feel it is better than the base 4HP22, some feel it is worse, my opinion is mostly it is just different. It does have a 3rd gear only “limp home” mode it can go into if there is a problem with the wiring or the ECU. It was used later E23 745i's, and 3HP22's on the early ones, so BMW had some confidence in it’s capability. It requires a 4HP22 flywheel for Motronic cars, one off a 3HP22 will not work, it won’t bolt up to the torque converter.Both the 3HP22 and 4HP22 can have the shift points adjusted somewhat by adjusting the cable on the throttle body going down to the transmission. Spec is something like .080” between the ferrule and the cable housing, but tightening it raises shift points, loosening it lowers shift points. Be gentle and make minor changes, but a minor adjustment can make a distinct improvement in how the car drives if it is shifting up too early. '''5 speed conversions:''' Many here have converted autos to 5 speeds, and maybe a couple have even done the reverse. It's pretty straightforward, but you need all the bits, from the flywheel and flywheel bolts, all the way to the end of the driveshaft. And the pedals, and pedal bracket, and shift linkage and support. Ideally you will be getting everything from a single donor car so you can grab everything, but that isn't always possible.

== Differentials ==
See [[Differentials]].

== Shifters ==
See [[Shifters]].

== Drivetrain FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Differentials]]
| What came in the car, ratios, LSD options
|-
| [[Medium Case Differential Rebuild]]
| Step-by-step medium-case diff rebuild
|-
| [[LSD Clutch Replacement]]
| Replace LSD clutches
|-
| [[Shifters]]
| Shift levers, consoles, and linkage
|-
| [[CV Boot Replacement]]
| CV boot / half-axle rebuild
|-
| [[Clutch Hard to Depress]]
| Hydraulics, disc, or pedal issues
|-
| [[Rear End Feels Detached]]
| Guibo, center bearing, subframe bushings
|-
| [[Clunking Under the Car When Accelerating]]
| Guibo / center bearing / diff mount
|-
| [[Clunking in Reverse]]
| Broken differential mount
|}

This page is the transmissions overview. Gearbox ratios: [https://bigcoupe.com/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?t=18798 bigcoupe t=18798].
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Engines

2026-08-13T22:29:35Z

Tig: Add Engine FAQs table from Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}

The BMW E28, produced from 1981 to 1988, was the second generation of the 5 Series and featured a wide range of engines tailored to different markets worldwide.

=== Summary by Region ===

* '''Europe''': Full range, including low-displacement economy models like the 518 and 518i, as well as high-performance models like the M535i and M5.
* '''North America''': Emphasis on larger engines like the 528e, 533i, 535i, and the M5, with stricter emissions requirements reducing power output.
* '''South Africa''': Unique combinations like the S38-powered M5 and the 518 with the M10 engine.
* '''Other Regions''': A mix of economy models and mid-range offerings like the 520i and 528i, depending on local demand and taxation rules.

== Petrol Engines ==

=== 4-Cylinder Petrol Engines ===

==== M10 Series ====

* '''M10B18''' (518):
** 1766cc, SOHC, carbureted.
** Power: 90 hp (66 kW).
** Markets: Europe and other regions with an emphasis on economy.
* '''M10B18 LE-Jetronic''' (518i):
** 1766cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 105 hp (77 kW).
** Markets: Europe.

----

=== 6-Cylinder Petrol Engines ===

==== M20 Series ====

* '''M20B20''' (520i):
** 1991cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 125 hp (93 kW).
** Markets: Europe.
* '''M20B27''' (525e/528e):
** 2693cc, SOHC, low-revving, economy-focused.
** Power: 121–129 hp (90–95 kW).
** Markets: North America, Europe, and other regions.

==== M30 Series ====

* '''M30B28''' (528i):
** 2788cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 181 hp (135 kW).
** Markets: Europe and other global markets.
* '''M30B30''' (530i):
** 2986cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 177 hp (132 kW).
** Markets: North America (1981–1982 models only).
* '''M30B32''' (533i):
** 3210cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 181 hp (135 kW).
** Markets: North America (1983–1984).
* '''M30B34''' (535i, 535is):
** 3430cc, SOHC, fuel-injected.
** Power: 182–218 hp (135–162 kW) depending on market and emissions equipment.
** Markets: North America, Europe, and other regions.

==== M88/S38 High-Performance Engines ====

* '''M88/3''' (M5):
** 3453cc, DOHC, individual throttle bodies.
** Power: 286 hp (210 kW).
** Markets: Europe.
* '''S38B35''' (M5):
** 3453cc, DOHC, individual throttle bodies.
** Power: 256 hp (191 kW).
** Markets: North America, South Africa.

== Diesel Engines ==

=== 6-Cylinder Diesel Engines (M21 Series) ===

==== M21D24 ====

* '''Turbocharged''':
** Displacement: 2443cc, SOHC.
** Power: 113 hp (83 kW).
** Models: 524td.
** Markets: North America, Europe, South Africa.
* '''Naturally Aspirated''':
** Displacement: 2443cc, SOHC.
** Power: 86 hp (63 kW).
** Models: 524d.
** Markets: Europe

== E28 Engine Swaps ==
Common swaps include
=== M30B35 ===
[[File:M30B35in535is.jpg|thumb|M30B35 in an 87 535is]]The M30B35 is the final iteration of BMW's M30 engine series, featuring a displacement of 3430cc and a compression ratio of 9:1. It was installed in late-production 1987-1989 E24 635CSi, 1988-1992 E32 735i/L, and 1988-1993 E34 535i models. This engine produces 208 hp at 5700 rpm and 225 ft-lb of torque at 4000 rpm. Notable identifiers include a valve cover labeled "BMW" and an intake manifold with "3.5" cast on the plenum.

See the [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306 M30B35 Swap] Tech FAQ.

=== S54 ===
[[File:S54 in an E28.jpg|thumb|300x300px]]The S54 is the high-performance iteration of BMW's inline-six engine series, featuring a displacement of 3246cc and a compression ratio of 11.5:1. It was installed in the 2001–2006 E46 M3, 2001–2002 Z3 M Coupe/Roadster, and 2006–2008 Z4 M Coupe/Roadster models. This engine produces 333 hp at 7900 rpm and 262 ft-lb of torque at 4900 rpm in its standard configuration. Notable identifiers include an individual throttle body system for each cylinder, a high-revving valvetrain, and a distinctive cast aluminum valve cover labeled "BMW M Power."

These threads have tons on info on S54 swaps:

* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=115262 E28 M5 with S54]
* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=108450 E28 S54 Porn, heavy pics]
* [https://www.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=137105 Minerva: The S54 powered, better than new, E28]

=== M54 ===
The M54 is a naturally aspirated inline-six engine from BMW's M family, featuring a displacement range of 2494cc to 2979cc depending on the variant (M54B25, M54B30). It was installed in a wide range of BMW models from 2000 to 2006, including the E46 3 Series, E39 5 Series, E60 5 Series, E53 X5, Z3, and Z4. In its most powerful form, the M54B30 produces 225 hp at 5900 rpm and 214 ft-lb of torque at 3500 rpm. Notable identifiers include a magnesium valve cover, a variable-length intake manifold, and the use of BMW's VANOS variable valve timing system for improved efficiency and performance.

=== M20 - e2i Conversion ===
The '''M20 "e2i" conversion''' is a popular modification for BMW enthusiasts seeking to enhance the performance of the M20B27 engine found in "eta" models by integrating components from the higher-revving M20B25 "i" engine. This conversion combines the torque-rich characteristics of the eta engine with the improved airflow and higher RPM capabilities of the "i" engine.

See [[M20 - e2i Conversion]].

== Engine FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[M30 Cooling System Bleeding]]
| Bleed an M30 (also works on M20)
|-
| [[M30 Valve Adjustment]]
| M30 valve lash / eccentric adjustment
|-
| [[TDC Mark on the Harmonic Balancer]]
| Verify the TDC mark
|-
| [[M30 Flywheel]]
| M30 flywheel types and swap notes
|-
| [[M30 Starter Removal]]
| Tip for dropping the M30 starter
|-
| [[M30 Engine Rebuild Tips & FAQ]]
| M30 rebuild notes
|-
| [[AFM vs MAF]]
| E28s use an AFM, not a MAF
|-
| [[Spark Plug FAQ]]
| Which spark plugs to use
|-
| [[M20 - e2i Conversion]]
| M20B27 eta-to-i conversion
|-
| [[Gas Leak Under the Intake Manifold]]
| Cold-start injector / fuel leak under intake
|-
| [[Fuel Smell After Filling the Tank]]
| Overflow / charcoal canister / filler neck
|-
| [[Running Issues Below a Quarter Tank]]
| Fuel pickup / sender issues when low
|}

See also the [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=60306 M30B35 Swap] forum FAQ.

[[Category:E28 Information]]

Electrical

2026-08-13T22:29:34Z

Tig: Expand Electrical FAQ table with remaining Tech FAQ migrations

{{PAGEBANNER:MyE28_Banner.jpg|toc=yes}}
== Electrical FAQs ==
{| class="wikitable"
|-
! FAQ
! Covers
|-
| [[Service Indicator Reset]]
| Reset the Oil Service and Inspection lights
|-
| [[SI Board Replacement]]
| Replace a failed service-interval board
|-
| [[E28 Charging System]]
| Alternator, regulator, battery light, voltage drop
|-
| [[On-Board Computer (OBC II)]]
| Time, units, CODE, range calibration, PPPP
|-
| [[OBC I Went Dead]]
| Inline fuse inside the early OBC
|-
| [[Radio Wiring]]
| Aftermarket radio on the factory harness
|-
| [[Cruise Control Doesn't Work]]
| Brake-light ground, pedal switches, brain, servo
|-
| [[Euro Headlight Wash/Wipe Troubleshooting]]
| Euro headlight washers and wipers
|-
| [[Turn Signals Don't Work But Hazards Do]]
| Fuse 11 or turn-signal stalk
|-
| [[Check Brake Lights Come On at Every Start]]
| Normal E28 startup lamp check
|-
| [[Oil Pressure Light Flickers]]
| Sender, wiring, or real low pressure
|-
| [[Temperature Gauge Troubleshooting]]
| How to read it, sender test, SI board, grounds
|-
| [[Power Window Issues]]
| Motors, regulators, switches
|-
| [[Auto Won't Shift After Cluster Swap]]
| Auto stuck in 1st after a cluster swap
|-
| [[Car Won't Start]]
| Where to start when it will not crank/start
|-
| [[Cold Weather Chime]]
| Ice-warning gong below 37 °F
|-
| [[Spark Plug FAQ]]
| Which spark plugs to use
|-
| [[M20 - e2i Conversion]]
| M20B27 eta-to-i conversion
|}

== E28 Electrical Troubleshooting Manuals (ETM) ==
ETMs are the go-to resource for tracking down electrical issues in E28s. They appear to only have been printed for US market vehicles, so euro cars may have some minor differences.
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e28_82_etm.pdf 1982 E28 - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e28_83_etm.pdf 1983 E28 - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e28_84_etm.pdf 1984 E28 - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e28_85.pdf 1985 E28 - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/1986%20BMW%20528e%20-%20535i%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf 1986 BMW 528e - 535i Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/1987-1988%20BMW%20528e%20-%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf 1987-1988 BMW 528e - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e28_88_etm.pdf 1988 E28 - Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]

== E28 Schaltplänes ==
The Schaltplänes, German for "circuit diagrams", are the BMW factory wiring diagrams. These can be very useful, however they are drawn for a technical audience and not for the faint of heart. We recommend using the ETM unless that doesn't solve your problem.

Scanned copies, originally from the BMW Group Archive, are available in German below. German print copies can occasionally be found on German eBay. English print copies are rare, if you have any please send a PM to [https://www.mye28.com/ucp.php?i=pm&mode=compose&u=27831 Galahad] on the forums or reach out to the [https://www.holygraillabs.com Holy Grail Labs support email].

* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/E28%20Schaltplane%20Band%201.pdf E28 Schaltplane Volume 1]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/E28%20Schaltplane%20Band%202.pdf E28 Schaltplane Volume 2]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/E28%20Schaltplane%20Band%203.pdf E28 Schaltplane Volume 3]
* [https://wiki.mye28.com/images/1/17/E28_Klima_bis_86.pdf E28 A/C Wiring, up to 1986, excerpt from Schaltpläne]

== E28 Related Electrical Info and Diagrams ==

* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/BMW%20ECU%20Wiring%20diagrams%20Menu.pdf BMW ECU Wiring diagrams Menu.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/Euro%20E28%20electrical%20diagrams.pdf Euro E28 electrical diagrams]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/bmw-cruise-control-actuator-technical-data.pdf bmw-cruise-control-actuator-technical-data.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/bmw-cruise-control-e23-e28.pdf bmw-cruise-control-e23-e28.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/Bosch%20M-Motronic%20Technical%20Instruction.pdf Bosch M-Motronic Technical Instruction.pdf]

== Other Model ETMs ==
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/E30_89_ETM.pdf E30 ETM]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/1988%20BMW%20635csi%20-%20M6%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf BMW 635csi - M6 Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/1995%20BMW%20525i%20-%20525it%20-%20530i%20-%20530it%20-%20540i%20Electrical%20Troubleshooting%20Manual.pdf BMW 525i - 525it - 530i - 530it - 540i Electrical Troubleshooting Manual.pdf]
* [https://forums.mye28.com/manuals/e34_90_etm.pdf e34_90_etm.pdf]

=== E21 Wiring Diagrams ===
The wiring diagrams are between the more traditional ETM layout and the Schaltplänes.

* [Https://wiki.mye28.com/images/6/6b/1981%20E21%20320i%20ETM%20Introduction.pdf 1981 E21 320i ETM Introduction.pdf]
* [https://wiki.mye28.com/images/6/6f/1979_E21_320i_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 1979 E21 320i Wiring Diagram.pdf]
* [https://wiki.mye28.com/images/1/1c/1980_E21_320i_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 1980 E21 320i Wiring Diagram.pdf]
* [https://wiki.mye28.com/images/4/47/1981-1983_E21_320i_Wiring_Diagram.pdf 1981-1983 E21 320i Wiring Diagram.pdf]

The E21 Schaltplänes have drawing errors in the fog light wiring in the fuse box, current best info is the wiring diagrams are correct to the cars.
[[Category:E28 Information]]

Medium Case Differential Rebuild

2026-08-13T22:28:27Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=142750 to wiki

LSD Clutch Replacement

2026-08-13T22:18:06Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=93418 to wiki

By [[athayer187]], Mon Jun 27, 2011

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=93418 LSD Clutch Replacement FAQ]

After much research, I replaced the clutches in my differential. If you have the ability to remove and replace the differential, you should have no problem replacing the clutches (you just need to make sure you have a very clean workspace and keep everything in order). I rebuilt my differential 3 times messing with 3 clutch setup, Porsche clutch setup, etc. Lesson learned is stick with two stock BMW clutches unless you want a lot of preload on the LSD guts (lots of lockup = LOTS if chatter).

'''Parts to buy'''

2 x 33141210626 - LSD clutches (~$48)

2 x Porsche P/N 91733255212 - LSD dog ear plates (optional, ~$40)

8 x M8x1.00 x 20 hex head bolts - to replace the allen heads that hold the LSD guts together as they may strip (~$5)

1 x 33111210405 - differential gasket (~$5) (or just use RTV)

2 x 33111214144 - Outer race o-rings (~$2)

2 x 33107505602 - Output shaft oil seals (~$9)

Brake cleaner to clean the internals

Blue loctite

'''Rebuild'''

1. Remove differential

2. Clean outside of diff (pressure washer, simple green and brush, etc.). You don't want any of that junk getting inside.

3.[https://www.dropbox.com/s/7k1fdmhl8wyuf2k/LSDReplacement.pdf?dl=0]

4. Reinstall differential

How's that for a 4 step DIY?

'''Notes'''

- Limited slip internal parts are not listed in ETK under any E28, look up an 86 E24 instead

- Check backlash once everything is reinstalled. When you have the differential back together (just before you put the rear cover back on), try to wiggle the ring gear. You should get a few thousandths of an inch movement at most. Additionally, there should be little resistance when rotating the output shafts. Too much means something is wrong.

- Bimmerworld clutches seem to be the same as the BMW P/N, just more expensive

- You can test it like the spec E30 guys do. Jack up one side of the car, put a torque wrench on one of the lugs. You should be able to spin the wheel at somewhere between 40-60 ft/lbs for a fairly healthy stock diff (you're measuring static breakaway torque). Much lower than that, and I'd rebuild sooner rather than later for the best performance.

[http://spece30.com/forum/48-drivetrain/53337-relsd-clutch-test]

- Diff internal P/N's can all be found in realoem under a euro E23 or E24

[http://www.penskeparts.com/DiagramsMain.aspx?vid=47177&MG=33&Diagram=33_0059&parts=33141206923]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

CV Boot Replacement

2026-08-13T22:18:06Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=92709 to wiki

By [[528elover]], Sat Jun 11, 2011

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=92709 FAQ: CV Boot Replacement Procedure / Half-Axle Rebuilding]

'''Problem:''' Your CV Boots have ripped or are torn

'''Cause:''' Wear on the rubber boots; road debris, etc.

'''Fix:''' '' See below.''

[http://www.realoem.com/bmw/diagrams/o/x/7.png]

'''Tools Required:''' Jack Stands, 8mm bit, Bit Extension, Ratcheting Socket Wrench, Torque Wrench, Chisels, Dead Blow Hammer, Snap-ring Pliers, Paint (optional)

'''Supplies Required:''' New CV Boot Kit (with boot, snap ring, clamps, grease)

'''Torque Specs:''' 42-48 lbs. (half-axle bolts to differential and flange)

'''1.''' First, get a good replacement CV boot kit. You'll need 2 per half-axle. The kit should come with the following: (1) new boots; (2) new snap ring; (3) pre-measured packet of grease; (4) new clamp ring. My kit had the joint caps already on the boots themselves and permanently secured with a ring.

'''2.''' Firmly support the car on jack stands. ''See separate FAQ.''

'''3.''' Soak the drive-axle bolts with solvent in advance (i.e., PB blaster). Using an 8mm hex bit with an extension and racket carefully loosen the INNER bolts first. Don't strip the hex bolt heads, or you'll have a helluva-time removing them. Next, loosen the OUTER bolts. ''[NOTE: If the car is on jack stands, and the rear wheels hanging it is easiest to remove the lower bolts, as the top bolt will be obscured by the boot itself. You can loosen two bolts, then deactivate the parking brake and spin the shaft to get to the other bolts.]'' After all the bolts are loosened, remove the INNER half-axle from the differential. Next, carefully lift the half-axle toward the cavity to the left or right of the differential and remove the half-axle from the OUTER connection.

'''4.''' The next part of the process is as messy as anything you will accomplish, so get lots of shop towels (i.e., cheap blue stuff at Autozone), Odorless Mineral Spirits at Home Depot, and a pair of "snap-ring pliers." You may also need a block of wood and a set of chisels to pound the joints off the axle itself.

'''5.''' Review the assembly carefully, before disassembling anything. Taking pictures always help in the reassembly process, in case you've forgotten anything. Remove the snap-ring with a pair of snap-ring pliers. To remove the joint from the axle carefully use a Dead-Blow Hammer (different from a regular hammer) and pound on the joint cap to remove the joint from the axle. [Pound gently and carefully -- this may take a awhile, so be patient].

'''6.''' Once the joint is removed from the axle, cut away the old boot, and clean the entire shaft with mineral spirits. Repeat on the other side.

'''7.''' You might want to paint your half-axle. I painted my inner section (i.e., the area which is uncovered by any parts) with a CVT High Temp Caliper paint in silver. It looks brand new!

'''8.''' Reassembly is the reverse of disassembly. Put on the clamp ring, new CV boot (using some dishwashing detergent is helpful on getting the boot on easily), and then the joint onto the axle. Don't forget to put the snap-ring on with snap-ring pliers. The trickiest part is getting the grease back into the joint. You should get some Permatex Aviation Form-A-Gasket No. 3 Sealant to seal the joint to the cap. Let it sit about 10 minutes after spreading on the sealant before putting the cap on the joint.

'''9.''' NOTE: Make sure you line up the bolt holes on the front of the cap with the rear of the cap (i.e., joint section), otherwise you'll have to take it all apart and reassemble. It is helpful to put the bolts through the front cap and through the while you are reassembling to make sure everything is lined up.

'''10.''' Once you've completed everything, then clean it up, and put it back into the car. Start with the OUTER section first, then the INNER section. Make sure to torque the bolts to the correct torque. Per Bentley, the correct torque is 42-48 ft-lbs. You should engage the parking brake while you are tightening, or the whole shaft will rotate.

'''11.''' Once all the bolts are tightened, check your work, lower the car, and go for a spin.

Hope this helps! Good luck!

528elover
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

AFM vs MAF

2026-08-13T22:18:05Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=56283 to wiki

By [[Shawn D.]], Wed Dec 03, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=56283 Air Flow Meter (AFM) vs. Mass Air Flow (MAF) Sensor]

'''Problem:''' Not knowing the difference between an '''Air Flow Meter (AFM)''' and a '''Mass Air Flow (MAF)''' sensor.

'''Cause:''' Lack of knowledge/understanding.

'''How to fix:''' Read the explanation below.

The air metering device on E28s is an AFM, not a MAF -- no E28s came stock with a MAF. While the objective is to end up with a measurement of the total amount (by mass) of air that is going in, the function and method of signal interpretation is entirely different.

An AFM is not a "mass flow device." Air flowing through the AFM causes a spring-loaded "flapper" door to deflect an amount proportional to the dynamic pressure of the flow. The AFM sends both flapper door angle and temperature to the ECU in separate signals. The ECU interprets the flapper door angle as dynamic pressure and combines this with the temperature reading to determine the mass flow.

A MAF is a "mass flow device." The ECU interprets the cooling of a heated wire element in the MAF to determine the mass flow. The lower the temperature, the greater the density, and/or the greater the volume passing over the heated element, the greater the cooling. Again, no E28s came stock with a MAF.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

No Heat From Dash Vents

2026-08-13T22:18:04Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=55723 to wiki

By [[Shawn D.]], Wed Nov 19, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=55723 No Heat From Dash Vents]

'''Problem:''' The defrost and heat vents put out warm air, but the dash vents do not.

'''Cause:''' This is the way the system was designed. See the schematic below.

'''How to fix:''' N/A

[https://i.imgur.com/tWYAJ7H.png]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Later Center Caps Don't Fit the Front

2026-08-13T22:18:03Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=53909 to wiki

By [[wkohler]], Mon Oct 06, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=53909 Center caps from later OE wheels don't fit up front!]

'''Problem:''' I just picked up a set of newer OE wheels. The center caps went on the rear just fine, but don't fit on the front!

'''Cause:''' Your E28 is running the older-style spindle dust caps.

'''Solution:''' Purchase the newer-style "concave" dust cap!

Part number: 31206777789

[http://www.autohausaz.com/secure/PartImages/31211130124.jpg]

The part is the same between left and right.

They're extremely inexpensive, as they cost about $2-$5 ea depending on where you get them. I'd give our endorsed vendors a shot first, though.

Simply pop your old ones out, and put these in. Give a nice whack with a rubber mallet and you're set!
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

SI Board Replacement

2026-08-13T22:18:03Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=45302 to wiki

By [[m.olennick]], Sat Mar 22, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=45302 Service Interval (SI) Board Replacement]

'''Problem:''' SI Board lights will not reset following directions

'''Cause:''' NiCad batteries have lived a long enough life

'''Solution:''' Contact Steve Haygood, or your alternate parts source. ProgRama remanufactures cluster boards in addition to many other european used parts and has put together an excellent flash based board for our chassis'. Steve gets these at an excellent price (compared to the list :shock: )

''Removal of existing instrument cluster:''
[list=1][*]Start by disconnecting the battery -- this procedure will be risky with the power still in tact.
[*]Next go about removing the steering wheel. The 22mm nut can be difficult but this is a necessity to get the cluster out.
[*]To remove the wheel from the column, turn the key in the ignition to position 2 to release the wheel lock and pull the wheel directly back toward you (noting the orientation of the wheel for replacement.)
[*]After this, remove the two philips head screws located at the top of the instrument cluster. With these two screws you will be able to rotate the entire instrument cluster.
[*]This part is best with small, feminine hands -- rotate the cluster toward the passenger seat and peek behind the cluster, pull the black lock-tab on the white cable harness and release the white connector. At this time you can also release the blue connector by unlocking the black sliding gate on the driver side.
[*]Next, rotate the cluster the opposite way, with the front of the cluster facing as far out the driver door as possible. From here you will be able to repeat the first step for the blue and yellow connectors in that order. Also remove the ground and positive lines to the brake lining bulb.
[*]With these connectors released, you will be able to rock the cluster toward you and slide it out.[/list]
''Disassembly of the cluster''
[list=1][*]Working through the next steps in a clean environment is definitely a plus -- avoid any dust possible, and have some microfiber towels on hand. On a flat, clean workbench, lay the cluster face-down on a towel. Remove the eight-philips head screws on the white backing panel. This will allow for the entire cluster board to slide directly back and out.
[*]Next we will remove the individual components, the center portion (fuel level, water temp, SI indicator and check panel indicator.)
[*]Start by removing the two 6mm nuts on the back of the white panel, to physically separate the board from the panel, apple gentle and steady force to the threaded studs -- this will release the prongs from the board. You can remove the panel and place it directly in the corresponding portion of the new cluster board.
[*]Next, removal of the tachometer, on the backside of the cluster board, behind the tach is located a locking clip which can be release with a flat-head screwdriver. With this clip released, the entire tach assembly will gently slide out. Place this unit into the new board.
[*]Now we can release the speedometer. In a similar fashion to the tach, the speedo is held in with a locking tab. With a jewelers flat-head screwdriver, find the lower left hand corner of the backside of the speedometer -- directly inside is the locking tab, which can be release by inserting the flat-head screwdriver. This will allow for the speedo to slide directly out and be installed in the new board.
[*]Finally, we can remove the misc. light bulbs and housings, also the black security chip which is located behind the old tach on the backside of the cluster board. Place the bulbs from the old board into the corresponding ports on the new board, using needle-nose pliers to turn and lock them into place.
[*]At this point, with the microfiber towel, you can clean up the face of the clusters, gently, gently, gently.

After cleaning any smudges, go about re-inserting the cluster board into instrument cluster housing and fastening the eight-philips head screws.
[*]With the proper installation of all the parts, you can now go about reinstalling the cluster through the reversal of the removal.[/list]
Pictures will come, if I ever do this again.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Ground Control Coilover Install

2026-08-13T22:18:02Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=45048 to wiki

By [[DaRedRocket]], Sun Mar 16, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=45048 Ground Control Coilover Install]

'''Official Ground Control Install FAQ'''

'''Problem:''' Can’t find springs with the correct ride height for you, want to run stiffer springs than normal?

'''Solution:''' Ground Control Coilovers

'''Overview''':

E28’s already have a coilover style suspensions setup; however, it is not adjustable in ride height and there are a limit as to what spring rate you want to run. Ground Control sells a kit for e24/e28 chassis cars, however, this is not a bolt on product like the typical spring and shock upgrade. Cutting, welding, and sum fabrication is required to properly fit the front coilovers on the strut.

Also, Ground Control recomends running Koni's with their setup because stock Bilstein Sports cannot handle the higher spring rates; however, it is still possible to run Billie Sports, you'll just have to get them revalved for that higher spring rate. And with Bilsteins or Koni's you'll want to run a 7" or 8" free length spring in the front and a 8" spring in the rear to have maximum adjustability (from stock height to 2" lower).

A good starting point for this setup, spring wise is 400lbs/in front and 300lbs/in rear with either a 7" or 8" spring in front and an 8" spring in the rear.

Some more info on shock choices courtesy of Peter Florence:

[quote="FirstFives Dictator"]Koni 8610-1437Race inserts from TrueChoice. I think GC can supplied them valved for your car and spring.

Another note: the 8610 are 1/2 turn off full stiff when I autocross on old AS04 tires. So ordering them with custom valving may be the trick.

Be sure to read the instructions and be ready to make a spacer to go in the bottom of the strut. For me it was about 3.5" pipe from my old chainlink fence. I think on E28 it will be a little longer. The 8610's come in 2 lengths; get the longer one. It has more travel.

Details here on spacer:

[http://www.firstfives.org/wb/msgs/32815.html][/quote]

'''Items Needed''':

Tool wise; you will need a grinder/ cut off wheel, MIG welder, and other basic tools to disassemble your front and rear suspension. FOR SAFETY, if you do not have a spring compressor to remove your old springs, I highly suggest you rent one rather than doing the lock and chain method.

You will need to call Ground Control directly or order through a local distributor to get the best setup for your needs. Some have had bad experiences with Ground Control customer service; however, I have no complaints. I would also like to note, that while ordering the coilovers, mention that you want 7" or 8” for the front as the 6” springs they send you are incredibly short for our cars unless you are track dedicated and don’t plan on driving over any bump that will destroy your oil pan, ask me how I know! Tell GC or whoever you are ordering through the intended use for the car and they will give you their opinion the ideal setup for your specific needs.

I cannot tell you exactly what to order since this setup is very customizable; however, I can give you my items ordered and I’m sure others who have purchased and installed their product can chime in with their setups so we can have a nice collection of GC setups for people to reference.

It is recommended that when using spring rates of 450lbs/in and above that you use a strut brace to avoid cracking of the shock tower; however, I’ve never seen such a thing and there are people running much higher spring rates than I. I went ahead and opted for front and rear Ireland Engineering strut braces, be aware that some front strut braces have limited room for adjusting the camber plates if you decide to run them so you may want to check the clearance to see if you’ll be able to adjust camber without removing your strut brace every time, my IE bar has enough room for full adjustability.

'''Step One''': Removing the Front Strut Assembly

As usual with any suspension work, get the tires off and put her in the air, make sure that the car is secure. To remove the front struts, you’ll have to take off the caliper, brake disk, ABS sensor, sway bar, bottom strut assembly, and strut mount. Begin by removing the caliper, then the brake disk. Then remove the ABS sensor by loosening the fastening bolt (I believe it is a 5mm allen ) and then popping it out with a flat head screw driver, it will be pretty hard to remove but it’ll come out. By removing the ABS sensor, you have now disabled the ABS, and the sensors are designed so that when they are removed, they break; therefore, you’ll have to order new ABS sensors if you want your ABS brake system to work. Now that you’ve got the caliper and disk out of the way, unbolt the sway bar, secure the spring with a spring compressor, and unbolt the 3 bolts for the strut mount at the top of the strut. Once all of that is done, there are 3 17mm bolts that hold the bottom strut assembly on, unbolt those and finally, remove your strut assembly. Now, you can unbolt the strut bearing from the chassis, there are three bolts, it a bit tight up there in the shock tower but is very do-able. Now that all of that is done, you should be able to pull the whole strut assembly out (strut bearing, spring, shock, strut housing, bearing, and dust guard).

Now that the strut assembly is out of the car, the next step disassembling the strut assembly.

'''Step Two''': Disassembling the Strut Assembly

Now is the most dangerous part of this disassembly, car springs have massive amounts of energy stored in them and you must perform EXTREME CAUTION when taking the strut bearing off and removing the spring. First you’ll need to get a spring compressor (you don’t have to buy one, you can easily rent one from your local auto parts store), now after compressing the spring so that there is little to now force being applied on the strut bearing. Once the spring compressor is set correctly and firmly tightened down, it should be safe to unbolt the top strut bearing. I believe it is a 19mm bolt and you’ll most likely need an impact gun to get it off, it is do-able, but once again very hard and remember to be careful that the spring is securely fastened and tightened down in the spring compressor, I can’t stress this enough. Once all of that is done, you’ll need to remove your shock. There is a collar nut on top of the strut, I removed via a chisel and a hammer and it worked great. Now that you’re shock, spring, and strut bearing are removed from the strut housing, it is time to start modifying the strut for the coilovers.

'''Step Three''': Modifying the Strut

Here are were pictures come in handy, when I did this project I used [http://picasaweb.google.com/tigrfan/2007_0302_BMW_Ground_Control?authkey=_tRxHaZdo5Q] site as a reference. Here is what my strut looked like after modification:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/31.jpg]

Notice that the spring perch that held the stock setup spring is gone and there is a new, much smaller perch welded in its place. That is essentially what you’ll have to do. I started by using a hacksaw to remove the majority of the metal from the spring perch, then I grinded the rest down. Make sure to measure from the top of the strut mount to where the old bottom of the spring perch was, this will be where your new spring perch will be welded. Or you could grind down the old spring perch just enough to leave a little lip left on the strut and this can be your new marker for the spring perch, either way is acceptable, I measured and grinded mine all the way off but I know some people used the latter method. This is also a good change to reinforce your sway bar links just incase you ever plan on upgrading, there are pictures in the link above on how to reinforce your mounts. Also make sure you do all your welding and grinding with the shock out, if it gets hot enough it could explode and that would not be good at all! Now that you’ve modified the strut, it is time to reinstall the strut assembly.

'''Step Four''': Reinstalling the Strut assembly with Coilover

It can be a bit confusing will all this shinny new hardware going onto your suspension and because this setup is a little different than stock, the order of assembly may be a bit confusing.

Here is what the finished strut assembly will look like:

[http://picasaweb.google.com/tigrfan/2007_0302_BMW_Ground_Control/photo?authkey=_tRxHaZdo5Q#5046225805930710546]

First you’ll need to put the new strut in, along with the adapter spacer if you have Koni’s, and tighten the collar nut. Then you can put the actual coilover sleeve in (the red threads and gold adjustable perch). After that, put the dust guard on, and the bump stop. If you get adjustable camber plates like I did and the pictures in the link above has, it will be installed exactly like a strut bearing since that is essentially what it is, it just has a large stack height and is adjustable for camber and caster. Put the camber plate or strut bearing on the shock and make sure to use a little installation grease as it is a bearing and it can be a little tight sometimes but it will go on easily. You can either torque down the top bolt off the car or on the car, on the car it is easier but either way is do-able. Now just refer to '''Step One''' but do it in reverse for the installation, make sure to tighten everything according to the torque specs.

Now that you’ve installed the front, it is time to drop the car onto the wheels and adjust the height accordingly to what you want. Also, if you’ve installed Koni Single Adjustable Shocks, you can only adjust rebound. I drove around a couple of time and adjusted the shocks accordingly to where I liked them. I haven’t touched my shocks since I installed them, but if I recall correctly, you’ll need to loosen the top strut bearing bolt every time you adjust them. Also, if you’ve installed camber plates, I’m running a -1 degree camber for my everyday driving and I don’t notice any weird tread wear, and I adjust them to -2.5 when I auto-x or go for very spirited drives on those early Sunday mornings :haul:!

Time for the rears!

'''Step Five''': Rear disassembly and Installation

The rear disassembly and installation is much easier than the front and requires no modification. Again, you’ll need to used a spring compressor to compress the springs for removal; remember to exercise EXTRME CAUTION as there is a lot of energy stored in the springs. After you’ve safely secured the spring, you can start unbolting the rear shock from the trailing arm and from the shock tower. After all the bolts have been removed, you should be able to remove the spring and shock; before that though, again, make sure that the spring is securely fastened in the spring compressor and there is no tension on any perches.

After everything is removed you can put the coil over setup on the shock. Remember that Ground Control suggests running certain shocks for a proper setup, I bought Koni’s directly from them and that is what they recommend but people do run Bilsteins, but if you have a high spring rate you may need to get them custom valved, just be aware and consult a Ground Control customer service representative to talk about what you plan on doing with the car.

Here is what the rear setup will look like once everything is assembled:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/6.jpg]

I just noticed that I didn’t have the shock mount installed in this picture but you’ll need to install that on top of the spring along with the spring pad they supply you with. Also refer to the link in '''Step Three''' for pictures of what the rear assembly will look like. Once you have the rear assembly put together, you can now bolt it back up to the rear trailing arm and shock tower.

Now that you have the rear all bolted down to specs, you can now lower the car back onto the wheels and choose the appropriate height you want.

'''Step Six''': Enjoy the Hell Out of Your New Suspension!

Remember, if you find that you’re springs are too short or you think they maybe a little to stiff for your liking, you can contact Ground Control for new ones. They replaced my front springs which were obviously too short like a warrantee but new springs are $150 for a set, any rate, any free length spring you want.

I hope this helps get a good FAQ started for GC install. Personally, this mod is the best thing I’ve done to the car and I don’t regret doing it at all, the adjustability and customizability of this setup really impresses me, not to mention the sheer performance. When I had my 27mm 4-way Adjustable front sway bar on (which I have removed for now due to cracked mounts) and my rear M5 bar, the car was flat out in every turn and would change direction with amazing sharpness, if you’re local (San Diego) and are contemplating this setup, let me know and I’ll gladly give you a ride.

Also, as a little bonus to the FAQ, I thought it might be a good idea to get a collection of info on what people are running so that people contemplating this can see what people run and ask them about their custom setup:

I’ll start.

DaRedRocket:

Shocks-Front: Koni Single Adjustables

Shocks-Rear: Koni Sports (Yellow Ones)

Springs-Front: 440 lbs/in, 7” free length

Springs-Rear: 300 lbs/in, 9” free length

'''and'''

Springs Front: 650lbs/in 7" free length

Springs Rear: 750lbs/in 6" free length

Bimmerguy2002:

Shocks All Around- Revalved Billie Sports

Springs-Front 520lbs/in, 7" free length

Springs-Rear: 750lbs/in, 8" free length

Note: Having a higher spring rate in front is not recomended as it will not keep the stock proportionality of spring rates the cars were designed with, a higher rear spring rate will tends toward oversteer and a higher front spring rate will tend towards understeer.

If people could follow this format for their info on their setup, that would be awesome!

'''References'''

[http://picasaweb.google.com/tigrfan/2007_0302_BMW_Ground_Control?authkey=_tRxHaZdo5Q]

Also, here is a stock list of all the springs options that GC supplies:

[http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/category.php/CA=31]

And here is what the GC setup comes with/ minus shocks or camber plates:

[http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=674/CA=102]

Here are the Adjustable Camber Plates:

[http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=689/CA=68]

Here are the optional rear Billet Alluminum Shock Mounts:

[http://www.ground-control-store.com/products/description.php/II=675/CA=68]

Enjoy.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Euro Bumper Install

2026-08-13T22:18:01Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=44005 to wiki

By [[DaRedRocket]], Thu Feb 21, 2008

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=44005 Euro Bumper Install]

'''Official Euro Bumper Install FAQ'''

'''Problem:''' You have two diving boards coming off your car and don’t know what to do about it.

'''Cause:''' The US has 5 mph bumper standards so the scraped the beautiful European bumpers for the North American market cars.

'''Solution:''' European Bumpers

There are several different ways the US to Euro conversion can be done. There is the “weekend hack job” way (where you chop up the US frame rails to accept the Euro bumper brackets), the OEM direction (where you replace the US frame rails with the correct Euro frame rails), or fabricate your own bumper brackets that use the US bumper shock mounts.

Here is an example of what the frame rails will look like for each:

-The weekend hack job as done on my car:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0352.jpg]

-The OEM job found on [http://www.m535i.org]:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/valence4.jpg]

-The fabrication job found at [http://www.cscoupe.org/misc/M5/euro_bumpers/]

[http://www.cscoupe.org/misc/M5/euro_bumpers/DSC01563.JPG]

I will be going through the weekend hack job installation.

You will need the following parts:

Description - Qty - P/N

Bumper Components you need:

Bumper front center - 1 - 51 11 1 868 091

Bumper front left - 1 - 51 11 1 868 093

Bumper front right - 1 - 51 11 1 868 094

Covering left - 1 - 51 11 1 868 097

Covering right - 1 - 51 11 1 868 098

Bolt - 6 - 51 12 1 843 029

hex nut with plate M8 - 6 - 51 11 1 835 625

Front Rubber Protective Moulding - 1 - 51 11 1 882 988

Clamp - X - 51 11 1 867 927

Fillister Head Screw (ST4,8x16-Z1) - 1 - 07 11 9 907 925

Body Nut (ST4, 8-7) - 1 - 07 12 9 925 738

Rubber strip left - 1 - 51 11 1 868 101

Rubber strip right - 1 - 51 11 1 868 102

License plate Molding:

Plug in Nut - 2 - 51 18 1 852 299

Fillister Head Screw (ST4,8x16) - 2 - 51 18 1 821 830

Protective Cap White - 2 - 51 18 1 813 017

OR Protective Cap Black - 2 - 51 18 1 823 474

Flat Washer (4,3) - 2 - 07 11 9 936 412

Base (Italy market only) - 1 - 51 11 1 836 099

Bumper Mounting Kit:

Mounting Parts Set (for bumpers only) - 1 - 51 11 9 056 461

Separate Bumper Mounting Components:

hex nut with plate M8 - 6 - 51 11 1 835 625

Hex Nut (M6-Z2) - 4 - 51 45 1 868 108

Bumper Bracket - 2 - 51 11 1 868 105

Hex Bolt (M10x25) - 2 - 07 11 9 913 834

OR Hex Bolt (M10x25) - 2 - 07 11 9 914 114

Flat Washer (10,5) - 2 - 07 11 9 936 436

Wave Washer (B10) - 2 - 07 11 9 932 112

Body Nut - 2 - 51 11 1 900 386

Hex Head Screw (ST6,3x190-C0-Z2) - 2 - 07 11 9 916 967

Turn Indicator Lights:

Left Turn Indicator (complete) - 1 - 63 13 1 373 297

Right Turn Indicator (complete) - 1 - 63 13 1 373 298

Bolt - 6 - 63 13 1 359 937

Washer-Gasket - 6 - 63 13 1 361 965

Bulb 12V 21W - 2 - 07 50 9 063 574

Expanding Nut (ST 4.8) - 6 - 63 17 1 367 868

Fillister Head Screw (ST4,8x16) - 6 - 07 11 9 907 789

Turn Indicator Replacement Parts:

Replacement Indicator Gasket - 2 - 63 13 1 366 573

Replacement Lens Right - 1 - 63 13 9 069 124

Replacement Lens Left - 1 - 63 13 9 069 125

Fog Lights:

Fog Lamp Left (Complete) - 1 - 63 17 1 375 057

Fog Lamp Right (Complete) - 1 - 63 17 1 375 058

Sheet Metal Screw - 4 - 63 17 1 367 315

Bulb (12V 55W H1) - 2 - 07 50 9 064 001

Fillister HEad Screw (ST4, 8x13-Z2) - 2 - 07 11 9 907 957

Expanding Nut - 4 - 63 17 1 367 868

Fog Light Replacement Parts:

Glass Holding Frame - 2 - 63 17 1 375 051

Lens Only Left - 1 - 63 17 1 375 067

Lens Only Right - 1 - 63 17 1 375 068

Valence Covering/Trim:

Covering Left - 1 - 51 71 1 888 653

Covering Right - 1 - 51 71 1 888 654

Push-Button - 2 - 51 13 1 820 141

Fillister Head Screw (ST4, 8x16-Z1) - 2 - 07 11 9 907 925

This parts list covers: bumpers, mounting hardware, turn signals, and fog lights.

If you have IS/M5 fog lights you can use these as they are the same on US models as on Euro models. Just pull off the correct mounting bracket so that the fog light and turn signal will be one unit as on European cars. As seen here on the right side of my car:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0491.jpg]

Notice the right side of the fog light and the left side of turn signal are joined by a pivoting joint while the left side of the fog light is mounted to the valance.

After tracking down all the necessary parts for the conversion, you’re finally ready for the disassembly of the US bumpers, modification of the US frame rail, drilling hole for the extra bolts in the rear, and cutting up your US valance to accept the Euro turn signals and fog lights (if you do not have a Euro valance)

-'''Step One''': Removing the US bumpers

You can start by removing front or rear, it’s all your choice, I chose to remove the rear first because it is easier. To remove the bumper shocks for the rear bumper there are 2 13mm bolts on each (3) shock, the bumper is heavy so be careful to not let it slip out after removing the last bolt, it WILL damage whatever is under it, including your exhaust. Next, remove the trim pieces that surround the US bumper, this should he as easy as finding all the screws along the each trim piece, disconnecting the side markers, and removing all the trim.

Now for the front bumper. If you have an IS front spoiler, this will be a BIG PITA. There are about 10 nuts and bolts holding the spoiler to the valance, some of which are very hard to get to, but doable, just take your time. After the spoiler is removed for those of you who have them, it is time to remove the US front bumper, which is also quite heavy. For the front, there are 3 10mm bolts hold the shock to the frame rail, two of which are very tricky to get to Be careful to not let the bumper slip out when removing the final bolt as it could damage needed parts. Now, disconnect your turn signals as the wiring for those will be needed, and remove the bumper and shocks from the frame rail. Then, remove the surrounding trim pieces and disconnect the side markers. The little white inserts that were used to hold the US top trim pieces in place can be left there or removed, its your choice. To remove them, I VERY carefully used a clean cloth and a small flat head screw drive to pry them out, I’m sure there is a better way to do this so I’m sure somebody can chime in?

Now that you have removed the US bumpers, you are ready for step 2!

-'''Step Two''': Modifying the US Valance and Wiring the Turn Signals

To remove the valance, your will need to remove the grills and headlights. After removing the grills and head lights, there are 4? or 6? screws, I forget, on the front center support, two more on each side on the exterior of the car, and one more on each side under the car. Remove all those bolts and screws, then wiggle the valance free. You will want to keep the valance off until the US frame rail are modified. However, you will need to put the valance on and off for test fiting of the fog lights with the Euro bumpers.

I haven’t personally cut up my US valance, as I sourced a brand new Euro valance to use, so I won’t be going over this in much detail as I’m sure there are other’s who have modified their valance who will chime in how to do this.

Ultimately, you want to trim the valance enough so that the fogs and turn signals fit, but want to leave enough material to mount them to. In the pictures below, notice the tabs around the cutouts for the Euro directionals and fog lights, you will need to leave material there in order to mount them.

The late Euro valance looks like this:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0332-1.jpg]

The early and late valance are the same in the mounting of the turn signals and fog lights, the only difference is in the lower portion. The early valance has a sharper rake rather than the smooth rake of the later version.

See the early valance here:

[http://westcoastcustomparts.com/pb/wp_8fcd9649/images/img293194646aca113dee.JPG]

Here' some more information with regards to the differences between US and Euro valances courtesy of ldsbreaker:

[quote="ldsbeaker"]Okay, maybe this is totally worthless information, but I studied your FAQ several times before I went out to tackle the front bumper, and thought I was ready.

I went to install the euro valence and discovered interference!

Upon further investigation, I discovered that the US valence and Euro Valence are ''slightly'' different.

(US on the bottom)

[http://img128.imageshack.us/img128/9936/1026260wn7.jpg]

[http://img148.imageshack.us/img148/3889/1026261xo4.jpg]

Apparently, I didn't notice in the VERY FIRST picture of your thread that you had cut the triangle off the bumper shock mounts and the core support.

(Still attached)

[http://img84.imageshack.us/img84/179/1026259wg1.jpg]

(cut off)

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0352.jpg]

I guess your other option is to cut out a small portion of the Euro valence to match the US one.

Once again, sorry if this is redundant, or too "barney style" for some of you, but it wasn't immediately intuitive to me, and I didn't notice anything in the writeup that mentioned it until right before I made this post. (then I looked at the first picture and it made more sense) :roll:[/quote]

There are two different types of Euro turn signals as it turns out. Ones that have been modified for US imported cars and ones that are either new, or European market cars. The modified US ones have been modified to accomodate the US dual filament bulb so there will be a running light when the lights are on. The original European market turn signals only have a signle filament bulb that is solely for the pupose of a turn signal/flasher, no running light. If you have the modified turn signal follow install ''A'' and for the non-modified, follow install ''B''.

Turn Signal Install ''A'':

The modified Euro turn signals and US turn signals are both dual filament bulbs for flashers and running lights. Wiring them is simple, the US and Euro turn signals both used the same color wiring, so it is as simple as splicing “like to like”.

Turn Signal Install ''B'':

In order to have your Euro turn signal be dual filament, and act as running lights and turn signals, you will have to install the US dual filament bulb. After this you will have 3 wires coming out the rear of the turn signal; a ground, a hot for the flasher, and a hot for the running light. First you will need to cut out the old single filament light socket, do the same to your old US turn signal. Be careful not to damage any of the wiring or socket on the US turn signal as you will be using this. Now, you are going to JB weld in the US socket in place of the Euro socket. Now you can wire them up just like install ''A'' above.

And wiring the fog lights should also me as simple as splicing “like to like”. NOTE: DO NOT mount up the lights until the bumper is mounted, the fog lights will only get in the way and you will have to remove them anyway.

-'''Step Three''': Mounting the rear European Bumper

After any assembling the rear bumper if necessary, you are ready to drill holes for mounting the rear bumper. Notice on the rear, there are several holes that the US rear trim used to mount to, the two most outside holes will be used as holes for the Euro bumpers; however, you will need to drill two more holes on the inside of these. You will need to measure your mounting points on the bumper bracket from center to center of each side, make the same measurement on the rear holes where your bumper will mount to, and mark where you have to drill. Find the appropriate size drill bit, and finally, drill the hole. The side mounts on your Euro rear bumper use the same holes the US trim pieces do, so there is no drilling required.

The rest is as simple as getting the bolts on the bumper mounts to go through the holes and tightening everything down.

Notice that there are two tabs on the rear corner below the bumpers that the US trim pieces used to mount to, you can either grind those off, or leave them. If you plan on mounting up a rear valance, you may want to leave them as they are great mounting points, but if not its your choice to remove them or not. I grinded them off and painted over any metal left. Also notice the holes for the US bumper shocks are visible even with the Euro bumpers mounted; again it is your choice to either do the necessary body work to cover them up and complete the rear or leave them are run the bumpers, either way works. Most never cover them up, and if you plan on running a rear valance, this absolutely isn’t necessary since the valance will hide them anyways.

Here is how I covered the holes:

Well, I started the body work for covering the rear holes today. I found all my supplies at the local Pepboys down the street. I had originally planned to make some plates that would bolt up to the stock mounting points, and then cover them with bondo; I though this was too much work for having to cover them up anyway, so I found some wire mesh that Bondo makes to cover up large holes, I figured, hell I give it a try.

Here are the pics. I pretty much just followed the directions on the back of the Bondo and used power tools instead of hand sanding where appropriate.

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0481.jpg]

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0483.jpg]

Remove Bumper:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0480.jpg]

Sand down to bare metal where the Bondo will be applied, I used a large area paint stripper that you put on a drill to hasten the process. Then cut and the self-adhesive Bondo mesh wire were desired:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0482.jpg]

For the side holes, I placed the mesh wire on the inside and held it (from the inside) with my hand while I applied the Bondo.

Then apply Bondo following the directions and let cure for 40 minutes, then sand down until it matches the curves of the rear valance:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0489.jpg]

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0490.jpg]

And the final before and after shots:

Before:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0411.jpg]

After:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0503.jpg]

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0500.jpg]

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0502.jpg]

Now you are ready to do the hard part.

-'''Step Four''': Modifying the US Frame Rails.

The US frame rail and Euro frame are different yet similar. The US frame rail is designed for 5mph crash test, hence the large bumper shocks, and the Euro frame rail is designed for 3mph crash test, hence the small, shockless mounts. However, hidden beneath the bulky US frame is something very similar to the Euro frame rail, it just has to be revealed. You will need to trim the US frame rail enough so that the fog light and shock mount will not interfere and so that the Euro bumper bracket will slide into the frame rail.

Here is an example of the Euro frame rail:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/valence4.jpg]

Here is an example of US frame rail over the Euro frame rail:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/valence2.jpg]

You will also need to “slot” the US frame rail to make it easier to bolt the brackets and maneuvering a drill bit in there wouldn’t be easy. I used a cut off wheel to trim my frame rails, but a sawzall could certainly be used, and maybe even tin snips for slotting the frame rail.

Here is an example of how much material you will need to remove to not interfere with the fog light, and how you will need to slot the US frame rail to accept the Euro bracket. These are both take from my car. By the way, this is by no means structurally sound, the metal that is you’ll be slotting to accept the Euro brackets is no more than 14 gauge thick metal. For me, this is just a temporary job, I will be fabricating brackets to use the stock US shock mount holes, which will be much stronger.

Right frame rail from side:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0352.jpg]

Right frame rail from underneath:

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/DSC_0349.jpg]

Bracket I will be fabricating in a couple of weeks:

[http://www.cscoupe.org/misc/M5/euro_bumpers/DSC01563.JPG]

There will definitely be some guess work involved in fabricating the frame rails especially for cars that have been in wrecks. But I hope this helps guide to what must be done.

After fabricating the frame rails and testing the fit of the bumpers with the fog lights and valance, it is time to bolt up the valance (either modified or Euro), and the bumpers. Again, the side mounts for the Euro bumpers use the same holes as the US trim pieces do, so mounting the front bumper after fabrication should be as easy as lining up all the holes and bolting everything down. When you bolt the bumpers on, you'll probably notice that the bumpers don't look like they are high enough because there is a gap from the top of the bumper to the line where the old bumpers were, don't worry about it. The top of the Euro bumpers should sit 15mm or so below that line.

After the bumper has been mounted, you can bolt up the fog lights and turn signals in one unit as pictured in the beginning of this FAQ.

Here is what the final product should look like, and what a better example than my car :D

[http://i55.photobucket.com/albums/g156/m3austin/bmw/EuroM5Clone-Original.jpg]

Hope this helps get a FAQ/ Sticky started. Also, let me know of any errors/ opinions on this process.

References:

www.m535i.org- There is already a FAQ on how to install Euro Bumpers

[http://www.cscoupe.org/misc/M5/euro_bumpers/-] Lots of pictures of the correct way to mount these bumpers. If this person is on this board I would love to hear from them.''A''
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Painting Moldings

2026-08-13T22:18:00Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=42469 to wiki

M30 Flywheel

2026-08-13T22:17:59Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=29845 to wiki

TDC Mark on the Harmonic Balancer

2026-08-13T22:17:59Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=29605 to wiki

By [[Duke]], Sun Feb 25, 2007

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=29605 How to verify the TDC mark on the harmonic balancer]

The following method of verifying the TDC on the harmonic balancer was explained to me by Paul Burke over the phone.

Because the harmonic balancer (HB) is from a E34 and the pistons are JE and not OEM, Paul wanted me to verify the TDC mark. Here is how I did it and what I found.

First of all, I thought about using a dial indicator. [http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/photos/33600-33699/33675.gif]

Only problem is, the piston is at TDC for longer than a set point. You can actually move the HB while the dial indicator is 0 ed out. This is caused by the clearance stacking and the fact that it takes several degrees of rotation for the rod to go over center. (Clearance stacking is the result of the wrist pin to wrist pin bushing, and rod to crank clearances) So that was a no go.

First, buy some big ass washers and bolt them in opposite corners to the block. Make sure the block is clean and scraped with a razor blade.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/TDC1.jpg]

Now I was hoping that these washers would act as a stop but they did not. The piston can easily bend them up on its way to TDC. So I used a .005 feeler gauge to continuously check the gap as I very slowly moved the piston towards the washers.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/TDC2.jpg]

Once the gap was closed I made a mark on the HB. I then turned the HB so the piston was touching the washers from the other direction. I marked that spot on the HB too.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/TDC3.JPG]

So if the OIT mark on the HB is correct, the distance from the factory mark to the marks I made on the HB should be the same on either side.

[http://e28-535i.com/upload/TDC4.JPG]

They were not. I measured 14mm on the left and 10 mm on the right of the factory mark. So my true TDC is 2 mm to the left of the factory mark. This is where I will set the HB when I dial in the cam. Paul is making making me an adjustable cam gear so the cam to crank timing will be perfect.

[quote="Rich Euro M5"] This is the correct way to determine where TDC is located using a piston stop. Regardless of whether the wrist pin is on center or offset, there is always a area of several degrees in crank rotation at TDC where the piston isn't moving up or down. This is caused by the clearance stacking and the fact that it takes several degrees of rotation for the rod to go over center. (Clearance stacking is the result of the wrist pin to wrist pin bushing, and rod to crank clearances) If this stacking error didn't exist, you wouldn't be able to turn the engine over, it would be bound up tight with 0 clearances.

When you degree the cam to the crank you don't want to use the factory marks anyway. You should be using a calibrated degree wheel bolted to the harmonic balancer. You should also fabricate a pointer from piano wire. You will also need to fabricate a piston stop from an old spark plug. You need to do this to verify your degree wheel/pointer is set exactly at TDC after you've assembled the head to the engine. (You won't be able to leave the rig on the engine during assembly) This allows you to move the pointer to match up with the 0 degree mark on the degree wheel. When you degree the cam you'll need the mount and dial indicator. The tip of the dial indicator will be setup to ride directly on the cam lobe of the #1 intake or exhaust valve. The engine is only turned over in the running direction of rotation, you set the cam per the manufacturer's specification sheet. ( This is typically done using an offset button, but since Duke will have a adjustable cam gear he's set) If you don't have the spec sheet, you'll have to fully degree the cam for intake and exhaust and run a few simple calculations to determine the actual cam specs. Then go from there.

Rich[/quote]

[quote="lkfoster"][quote="Devinder"]You're still too close to the slop point. I was getting the same results on my engine until I went down about 1/4". Not saying your mark isnt off but it's hard to tell with a few thousands piston travel. I mounted a piece of thick bar stock in those same head bolt holes and tapped the middle of it for a bolt to limit piston travel.[/quote]

That's the way I've always heard it should be done. At TDC movement of the crank with respect to piston movement is too large.

1) Mount a positive stop about 1/2" to 1" into the cylinder.

2) Rotate the crank shaft one direction until it solidly contacts the stop.

3) Temporarily mark the balancer at the timing mark.

4) Rotate the crank the other direction.

5) Temporarily mark the balancer at the timing mark.

6) Measure the distance between the two marks, TDC is exactly mid-way between the two marks.[/quote]

[quote="Rich Euro M5"][quote="stuartinmn"]My concern would be if the outer section of the harmonic balancer has slipped so it's now a couple degrees off, it may a sign that 1) it will continue to move around, making any corrected marks inaccurate as well, or 2) it's on the road to failure and may come apart altogether.
[/quote]

Stuart,

I think it would be a good idea to simply check the TDC mark as Duke did any time the head is off the engine. This will tell you if the outer ring of the balancer is in fact starting to slip.

Rich[/quote]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

M30 Valve Adjustment

2026-08-13T22:17:58Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=28172 to wiki

By [[Kmoy2002]], Fri Jan 19, 2007

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=28172 M30 Valve Adjustment]

'''Problem:''' Valves tick or no valve adjustment has been done for some time

'''Cause:''' Gap clearance gets bigger as engine gets used. It's typical for M30s

'''How To Fix:'''

'''Tools:''' Special tool (Can be made by bending a piece of aluminum rod/hex wrench/hanger [This tool is used to turn the eccentric. You stick one in the hole of the eccentric and use it as a lever to turn the eccentric.]), wrenches, feeler gauge, screwdriver

1.Remove air box/any vacuum hoses

2.Unplug spark plug wires

3.Remove valve cover vent hose

4.Unbolt other circled areas

5.Remove Valve Cover (9 bolts)

6.Figure out which pair of valves are TDC (Top Dead Center) and adjust those. (Engine is slanted so the lobes are facing downward perpendicular to the pison(not perpendicular to the ground)) Loosen nut on rocker arm. Slide Feeler gauge in between the rocker arm and cam shaft. Place special tool in hole and rotate until it is snug. You should be able to move the feeler gauge around with resistance in between the eccentric and the valve. It is possible to compress the feeler gauge and get a false adjustment. Retighten the nut with feeler gauge still between.

Warm engine use .014in Cold engine use .012in

I had a Schrick 282 cam so my mechanic suggested .013in

Stock: pre ~82 M30's .010-.012 was spec'd rather than the .012-.014 as on later cars

7.Bump engine using ignition or the service port

or

Remove the fan and use a socket and wrench on the main hub nut to turn the engine. It is much more precise and will not damage your starter and you won’t turn the engine too far.

or

Use a crescent wrench on the center nut on the alternator to advance the motor. The pully will slip in one direction and then pressing on the belt with your other thumb puts enough tension on the belt to turn the motor. Has a racheting style effect (don't have to remove the wrench to reset it) and saves the hassle of removing the fan.

How far: Turn the motor until the cam lobe for the valve you are adjusting is exactly 180* from where the rocker contacts the cam (not just facing down since the engine is slanted).

8.Repeat with other cylinders. List all the valves on a sheet of paper and cross them off as you adjust them.

Note:

if the valves are original, one or more of the valve stems is probably worn and the adjustment should be done to .008 on the cam side

It may be good to note that if the adjustment has not been done in a long time, you may have to adjust 2 or three times in the first 2000 miles or so because the eccentric may have been worn flat and when you adjust, it is contacting the valve on a corner which wears down quicker (causing the valves to go out of adjustment again)

Now's a good time to make sure your banjo bolts aren't missing/loose. If they are, relocate them/retighten them. Or replace both of your BBs with the BMW upgrade ones and use some additional BLUE locktite.

9.Rebolt valve cover in the folloring order (pic)

10.Reassemble the rest then go test.

[http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/1003/dsc02560iw4.jpg]

[http://img259.imageshack.us/img259/4082/dsc02561mf6.jpg]

[http://img440.imageshack.us/img440/466/dsc02568lz2.jpg]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

M30 Starter Removal

2026-08-13T22:17:57Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=27427 to wiki

By [[Skeen]], Mon Dec 25, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=27427 M30 Starter Removal Tip]

'''Problem:''' Starter went bad! How do I get the freakin' thing off?!

'''Cause:''' That stinkin' top bolt!

'''How to fix:''' Take a 3/8" drive 17mm shallow socket and streamline it. Shorten up the hex side of it to just the depth of the bolt head (~.25") and then grind off some of the shoulder on the ratchet side. Use a small diameter extension that's at least as long as the starter (if it's too fat, you'll have some clearance problems).

Your tool should look something like this:

[http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelskeen/e28_starter_tool%20001.jpg]

[http://home.earthlink.net/~michaelskeen/e28_starter_tool%20002.jpg]

When you're using this tool to take a starter off, you'll want to take the bottom bolt out first because when the top one starts coming out it will trap your tool between the bolt and the starter body if you can't pull the starter out of the block.

'''Installation:''' I suggest using a bit of Anti-Seize goop on the threads of the bolts you put on so it'll be easier if you have to take the starter off in the future.

-Michael
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Odometer Gear Replacement

2026-08-13T22:17:56Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=26424 to wiki

535is Front Airdam Mounting

2026-08-13T22:17:56Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=23666 to wiki

By [[booker]], Sat Aug 26, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=23666 535is front airdam mounting instructions:]

Here is a set of instructions for mounting a stock 535is front airdam. These are the instructions that came with the car when they were delivered from Germany. Enjoy!

[http://www.mye28.com/tech/NA_spoiler_install.pdf]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Steering Knock When Turning

2026-08-13T22:17:55Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17728 to wiki

By [[rexmo]], Mon Mar 20, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17728 Knock heard/felt when I turn the steering wheel]

'''Problem:''' I hear/feel a knock when I turn the steering wheel.

'''Cause:''' Metal fatigue failure of the welds between the steering box mounting bracket and the front subframe.

'''Evaluation:''' Have a helper turn the steering wheel while you watch the steering box. If the box rocks side to side, its mounting bracket is broken. If not, it's something else. See other causes, below.

'''Solution:''' Remove subframe from car and weld crack(s).

[http://www.teamdfl.com/bmw/e28/frontsubframe/subframe.html]

'''Alternate solution:''' Replace the short bolt that holds the steering box to the subframe with a ~8"x3/8" Grade 8 bolt with fender washers to span the hole on the bottom of the subframe. Locknut or a jam nut probably a good idea. Black iron reducer pipe fittings have been used as sleeves to brace the mounting bracket. Someone had the "bright" idea of painting them red for marketing purposes.

'''Other causes:''' Jeremy: Strut bearings and sway bar end links are reported as additional knock sources in the front end. I locked down my steering box (mount was cracked), but the clunk continued until I tracked down a failed ball joint on a sway bar end link.

Threeshifter: The steering column collar nut inside the cabin near the pedals is also a source of knock. Also a miss adjusted or warn out steering gear is a source of knock in the steering.

This sort of jumps to the worst case knock without mentioning the easy/easier to fix sources of knock that should be checked first.

lkfoster: I put a large crescent wrench on the nut and then turn the steering wheel to tighten. Much more leverage that way. I turn it an eighth of a turn and check that the steering column can still be moved in and out. Repeat as needed until the clicking noise goes away.

Rob Anderson: I have also had a problem where the aluminum upper part of the column which houses the steering wheel lock and the ignition switch has become loose on the retaining bolt. The way to fix this is to remove the single bolt that holds it and put some JB weld between the aluminum and the steel sleeve. Then reassemble. This removed all clunking in my steering.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Car Won't Start

2026-08-13T22:17:54Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17654 to wiki

By [[Lotus72D]], Tue Jan 31, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17654 Car Won't Start]

'''Problem:''' Car Won't Start

'''Solution Contained Here:''' [http://home.bellsouth.net/p/s/community.dll?ep=16&ext=1&groupid=160912&ck=]

Get the electrical diagrams from this [http://www.e28planet.com/etm.php], if needed. These diagrams, in the '''E'''lectrical '''T'''roubleshooting '''M'''anual ('''ETM''') show the wiring colors as well as the pin outs for most of the car. It also has pictures of the components, lists their locations and has splice and ground information. Get the one for your car and put it on your computer. Print out the pages you need, then post questions in a new thread.

ETM Link: [http://wedophones.com/BMWManualsLead.htm]
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Clutch Hard to Depress

2026-08-13T22:17:54Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17653 to wiki

By [[JBort]], Tue Jan 31, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17653 Clutch always failing, difficult to depress]

'''Problem:''' Clutch pedal gets progressively harder, may get to the point of not returning, may be leaking hydraulic fluid, may fail completely.

'''Probable cause:''' Cracked pedal cluster bracket.

'''Solution:''' Replace bracket

'''How Do I Know?:''' I've replaced five of them!! It happens!

'''Replacement:''' New brackets are less than $45. Old ones can be welded and reinforced (I keep a "repaired core".

'''Note:'''There is an early and a late bracket, the difference being the hole for the brake light switch, however you can use them interchangeably with the corresponding switch. You should replace the clutch master cylinder, since you will have the best/easiest opportunity when the pedal cluster is removed.

Begin by removing the covers under the dash and under the steering wheel.

I would, at this time, verify that the bracket is cracked. Looking up from under the clutch pedal, sight the clutch master cylinder and the surface (of the bracket) it's bolted to. Look at the metal towards the front (pedal side) of this part of the bracket. When cracked (broken), the mounting surface of the clutch master cylinder will cause the cylinder to shift sideways, causing a misalignment of the plunger to the cylinder. The wear is rapid and not repairable, the clutch master cylinder must be replaced.

Remove the steering column by unplugging the electrical harnesses from the column, unbolting the two "swing arms" from the telescoping mechanism, removing the three upward facing bolts holding the column to the pedal bracket (one in the center and one on either side), and loosening the big 36 mm nut where the steering column "splines" to the steering shaft. Pull the entire column out and out of the way, and you have lots of room to work. (I can get to this point in about 10-15 minutes).

Disconnect the throttle and brake return springs, disconnect the brake and clutch master cylinder plungers, and unbolt the clutch master cylinder (two 10 mm bolts) and set to the side. Using a long "wobbly" extension, remove the 4 horizontal nuts and two vertical bolts (all 13 mm). The pedal cluster should be free. Remove as a unit with the pedals. On the bench, transfer the brackets and switches (as applicable) to the new/repaired pedal cluster bracket.

This is the best time to replace the clutch master cylinder. To reduce the mess, siphon some brake fluid from the reservoir. (Note, RHD models will have a separate reservoir for the clutch hydraulics, which should be completely drained). The upper hydraulic fitting presses in place; the rear bolted flange fitting can be reached from inside the engine compartment. A helper is convenient at this point. Switch the hydraulic fittings over the new clutch master and set to the side.

Installation is the reverse of removal. First replace the bracket (6 nuts/bolts). Pay attention to the "over-center" spring (large coil spring attached to the clutch pedal. It has a groove to set in. Next is the clutch master cylinder. It helps to depress the throttle for access to the 10 mm forward bolt holding the clutch master to the new/repaired pedal bracket. Reconnect the brake plunger and the clutch plunger. This connection is an eccentric and you can slightly adjust the clutch pedal height. Reconnect the throttle and brake return springs, then slide the steering column into place and reinstall the bolts and levers. Tighten the spline-shaft nut and reconnect the wiring harness plugs. Bleed the clutch hydraulics (I use a big medical syringe pushing fluid up from the slave cylinder bleed screw through the clutch master and into the reservoir. Make sure the clutch pedal is working, then "button up" the under dash and column trim pieces.

:D
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Wetness in the Trunk

2026-08-13T22:17:53Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17652 to wiki

By [[ddstl]], Wed Feb 01, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17652 Wetness in the trunk]

'''Problem:''' I put my Bentley in the trunk, and the next day, it was wet, and looked like an accordion!

'''''LIKELY CAUSES:'' '''Water in the trunk due to rust around license plate light assy. or antenna; dry, leaky taillight gaskets; leaking trunk seal; severe rust in lower portion of trunk.

''Which one is causing my leak?'' One good way to test: Put a friend or your little brother in the trunk with a flashlight and spray the rear of the car in the suggested areas with a high pressure garden hose. When you hear yelling, you know water is getting in, and you've found your leak.

'''SOLUTIONS:

A:'''For trunk seal replacement:(excellent writeup by Jim Davis)[http://www.firstfives.org/faq/trunkgasket/trunkgasket.html]

Rust repair is fairly detailed, and the fix is obvious--remove the rust and fill the hole(s). There is plenty of info on the web on rust removal and repair.

As for the taillight seals: some have successfully revived old dry seals by soaking them in a light oil for a few hours, patting them dry, and reinstalling. Various parts sources including Steve Haygood, Brian at BMW of Chattanooga, BMW, and Bavauto, carry the seals--less than $20ea. (When I asked the lad at my local BMW parts counter about the seal, he told me I'd have to buy a complete taillight assembly--no thanks!!!)

To remove the seals, remove the rear trunk carpet that covers the tail lights. Disconnect wiring to the tail light assembly. Then, simply loosen and remove the 10mm nuts that hold the assembly to the chassis and lift the entire assembly away from the rear of the car and out. The gasket may come with the unit, or it may stay with the car. Clean everything up and reinstall in reverse of removal.

'''B:''' (from LouieLouie)

I had been plagued with a wet trunk after doing all the items in your FAQ for 5 years (Seattle, where it rains a bit...) and one day I pulled the C-pillar vent cover off and found that some of the plastic grommets holding the cover on were missing or broken and the water runs straight to the trunk. The part that I was missing [http://bmwfans.info/original/E28/Lim/535i-M30/USA/L/A/1987/05/mg-51/ill-51_0817/]. The #4 grommet is only at the bottom and while it looks like a Roundel grommet, it's not one.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Power Window Issues

2026-08-13T22:17:52Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17649 to wiki

By [[JBort]], Wed Feb 01, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17649 Power window issues]

'''Problem:''' Window goes down but not up, moves but the action is very jerky, or won't move at all.

'''Likely cause:''' Window switch internal electrical contacts are pitted/corroded.

'''How to check:''' Swap with a known good switch.

'''Repair:''' Replace switch or disassemble switch and clean/restore contacts.

If you choose to disassemble the switch, watch out for springs or clips falling off the switch. Pry the switch halves apart with a small screwdriver. The switches have a high current going thru them, and the internal contacts tend to pit and arc, especially after 20+ years of use.

Clean the contacts with your favorite tool (well not your FAVORITE tool...(cough, cough)...). I've used a Dremel with brass brush, a scotch-brite pad, and a drafter's electric eraser (kept from the days before AutoCAD).

I've also restored a set of severely pitted contacts with silver solder. Of course it won't last as long as the originals, but it will get you through a weekend or a work-week.

For the later illuminated switches, the bulbs are replaceable.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Check Brake Lights Come On at Every Start

2026-08-13T22:17:52Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17648 to wiki

By [[Tjn182]], Mon Feb 13, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17648 Check brake lights come on every time the car starts]

'''Problem:''' Check brake lights come on every time the car starts

'''Cause:''' Every e28 does this at startup.

'''Solution:''' Push your brake pedal and the light goes away - every e28 does it, there's nothing wrong with your car.

'''How can you tell?:''' You look at it every time you start your car :)
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Turn Signals Don't Work But Hazards Do

2026-08-13T22:17:51Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17647 to wiki

By [[Tjn182]], Wed Mar 01, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17647 Turn signals don't work, but hazards do! What gives?]

'''Problem:''' My turn signals don't work, but my hazards do! What gives?

'''Cause:''' 1) Busted signal switch (lever) - worn out and in need of replacement, or 2) Fuse 11 is bad.

'''Solution:''' 1) Order a new turn signal lever (make sure you specifiy if you have the ability to switch ECU functions via the lever). It's a simple removal of the steering column, unscrew old part, screw in new part; or, 2) Check and/or replace Fuse 11.

If neither your turn signals nor your hazards work - then your problem is with the turn signal relay - a universal part, located in the steering column as well.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

OBC I Went Dead

2026-08-13T22:17:50Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17645 to wiki

By [[Wiseguy]], Mon Mar 06, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17645 My OBC1 Went dead (Pre-85)]

'''Problem:''' My OBC1 Went dead (Pre-85)

'''Solution:''' Check the fuse that's INSIDE the OBC Computer, located underneath the steering column. Inside that silver box is a small fuse (I always used SFE4 fuses from Radio Shack) in an inline holder. I bet it's blown.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Running Issues Below a Quarter Tank

2026-08-13T22:17:50Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17644 to wiki

By [[rexmo]], Mon Mar 13, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17644 Running issues when gas is below 1/4 tank]

'''Problem:''' My car stalls and won't re-start when the fuel level gets below about 1/8 tank.

'''Cause:''' The fuel pump in the tank (Suction device with pre-supply pump per ETK) is weak or not operating at all. It is thought that letting the car run out of gas damages the pump, since it is lubed by fuel. If it is running, a buzzing noise should be audible when trying to start. A better test for this is to rig a jumper for the fuel pump relay, preferably with a switch, unless your arms are long enough to reach the ignition switch while your ear is near the floor of the trunk.

'''Solution:''' Best is to replace with a new one. You might find a good used one. Some owners report making a ca. '71 Vega pump work, with an hour's worth of hacking.

Sometimes such pumps can get stuck, especially after the car sits for an extended period of time. Tapping the pump with a hammer may unstick it.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Rear End Feels Detached

2026-08-13T22:17:49Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17643 to wiki

By [[Yellow2]], Tue Jan 31, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17643 Rear end feels "detached"]

'''PROBLEM ''': Car feels like rear end is "detached when driving. Changes lanes randomly and hard to keep straight on the road.

'''SOLUTION ''': Subframe bushings need replacing right away!

'''How Do I Know?''' : Car was a nightmare to drive when the second one broke on a trip back from charlotte. I was in a thunderstorm and the thing wanted to switch lanes without me even touching the steering wheel. A Very dangerous situation that could get you in trouble fast.

'''FIX''': Contact Da Parts Pimp or Steve haygood for new ones ASAP. I got mine and spent the afternoon installing them without the special tool. Talk to them about getting the tool or what works best. Mine worked fairly well with a blowtorch and a screwdriver/hammer combo, but the tool i hear is second to none for fixing it. A set should run you about $40 shipped maybe more. I forgot how much i got mine for. We have discussed in previous post that filling them with the polyfill will make the car very stiff feeling and is reccomended for track use only.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Brake Pedal Pulses After Hard Use

2026-08-13T22:17:48Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17410 to wiki

By [[Tammer in Philly]], Wed Feb 15, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17410 After a track day of hard use, my brake pedal pulses]

'''PROBLEM:''' After going to the track, my brake pedal pulses like the rotors are warped.

'''CAUSE:''' NOT warped rotors! You are experiencing uneven deposits of pad material on the rotors which occurred while the pads were very hot on track. It is likely that you were using street pads and experiencing some brake fade.

'''HOW DO I KNOW?''' Go out and do several HARD stops from about 40-0 or 60-30 mph; this should help scrub off the pad material coating the rotors. If it doesn't work, switch to an aggressive pad (Hawk Blues work very well for this) and repeat. If it still doesn't work, maybe you actually do have warped rotors, but this is much more rare than people think.

'''SOLUTION:''' You've already fixed it! Next time you go to the track, get a set of track pads (Porterfield R4 work well) and bed them properly. I recommend a dedicated set of rotors for track use so you don't have to re-bed your pads at the start and end of each track event.

Keep the shiny side up and the pointy end forward,

tammer
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Dashboard Cracks

2026-08-13T22:17:48Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17409 to wiki

By [[Tammer in Philly]], Wed Feb 15, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17409 Cracks in the dashboard]

'''PROBLEM:''' My dashboard looks like (choose one): the San Andreas fault, my plumber's ass, a Baltimore street corner ... in other words it's got cracks all over.

'''CAUSE:''' "They all do that." Especially when they sit in the sun, don't get conditioned, and experience extreme and rapid temperature changes.

'''SOLUTION:''' Free: Live with it. Cheap: Dash cover, a plastic shell that fits over the stock dash and has cutouts for bents and such. About $100 from places like BavAuto. They look decent from 3 or 4 feet; only aficionados will notice. Pricey but the "right" way: A new dashboard, about $560 as of this writing. R&R is tough the first time--expect it to take 6-9 hours for a newbie. For an excellent write-up, see Todd Kenyon's E28 M5 site (Google "Todd Kenyon E28 M5"). Be prepared with appropriate rivets, a drill, and a rivet gun to transfer VIN plates and bracketry from old to new dash. CAUTION: the attachment of central ducting to the dash is done via lunchbox-style catches; the plastic around these is very easy to break! Be very cautious while extricating ductwork. The wiring under the dash is simple to keep track of, use lots of tape flags to track connectors.

'''PREVENTION of REPEAT SCENARIO:''' Vinylex every month, windshield sunshade every time the car is parked outside (also protects leather and cools interior), and try not to crank the heat up super-fast on those really cold mornings. Feel free to email me for pictures taken during my install; I have not gotten them all online.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Car Squeaks and Rattles

2026-08-13T22:17:47Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17407 to wiki

By [[ddstl]], Sat Feb 25, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17407 Car squeaks and rattles]

'''PROBLEM:''' My car squeeks and rattles--what can be done to minimize this?

''One Solution'' Lubricate! Your door seals, hinges, and latches may need attention.

'''How do I do it?''' Spray silicone on a rag away from the car, and wipe the door seals with the saturated rag--repeat this a few times a year and you'll notice that your car is quieter. Also lubricate the hinges with white lithium grease,(the spray works well) and hit the latches with a bit of Tri-Flow or graphite.

Also check the condition of the latch bumpers and catches--replace missing or worn parts.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]

Fuel Smell After Filling the Tank

2026-08-13T22:17:46Z

Tig: Migrate Tech FAQ t=17406 to wiki

By [[Tammer in Philly]], Wed Feb 15, 2006

Original thread: [https://forums.mye28.com/viewtopic.php?t=17406 Fuel smell after filling the tank]

'''Problem:''' Fuel smell in trunk/at rear of car after filling up or after spirited driving with >3/4 tank. Smell never or rarely enters passenger cabin, and is strongest in trunk.

'''LIKELY CAUSES:''' Leaking filler neck, leak at filler neck/tank attachment, leak in lines from vapor condensation canister in trunk. Rare cases: rust holes in upper part of tank.

'''HOW DO I KNOW?''' Start with the easiest and check the lines from the grey condensation canister over your Right shock tower in the trunk; they drain back to the tank. Check the filler neck for cracking or leaks. Extreme cases, may have to pull the gas tank. If no smell occurs after fill-up to only 3/4 tank, suspect the filler/tank attachment or rust issues, but not the vapor recovery tank as it shouldn't get utilized in this case. After spirited drive, check for moisture/leaks on outside of tank. This is difficult as fuel evaporates quickly. EDIT: also check for leaks at the fuel level sender access panel in the trunk floor, a round black panel under the carpet, right side. Seals on this panel can leak.

'''SOLUTION:''' Find the suspect lines and replace. Extreme case: replace gas tank.
[[Category:Tech FAQ]]